Bistro Les Papilles: small French bistro with larger-than-life fare
- Dishes like duck leg confit with mashed potatoes and beef rib-eye with herb butter and goose-oil fries are not to be missed, but there’s also a dinner tasting menu with seven courses
The small bistro in a side street of Causeway Bay is long and narrow, squeezing in 20 seats. Helming the kitchen is chef Jeff Chan, who was part of the opening team at Amber before moving to the now closed St George, under Philippe Orrico at 1881, and more recently at chef Yannick Alleno’s short-lived restaurant Terrior Parisien.
Chan offers French bistro dishes for lunch such as duck leg confit with mashed potatoes (HK$118), beef rib-eye with herb butter and goose-oil fries (HK$138), and morel and wild mushroom risotto (HK$98); the mains come with a starter and tea or coffee. However, we decided to opt for the larger dinner tasting menu (HK$680 for seven courses).
The dishes were reminiscent of Amber fare, such as crab and sea urchin with celeriac foam, a rich dish but the texture should have been firmer. Next, we tried the lightly smoked salmon with generous dollops of caviar on top. It came with cucumber salad and avocado purée. It was served in a smoky glass container to add table-side drama. We would have preferred less caviar and more cucumber salad. Next we tried the French steak bavette with truffle mashed potato served rare, although we would have preferred it medium cooked. For dessert, we loved the French toast, done perfectly with a soft middle and crunchy top, and a chocolate tart with miso, which did not quite work for me.
We think this restaurant would work better with solely bistro-style dishes for lunch and dinner, given its size. The degustation menu was average, with nothing too outstanding. Stick to the duck leg confit and roasted spring chicken dishes and we think the restaurant will work well.
Bistro Les Papilles
G/F, 44 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, 3114 2389
