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Why you must eat bread in Uzbekistan, where the humble loaf is ‘life itself’

  • A visit to a bakery has to be on any travel itinerary in Uzbekistan, with every village and town having its own varieties of bread

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A loaf of bread - known as “non” in Uzbekistan - with intricate designs baked in the artistic style of the country’s Fergana Valley. Photo: Anne Pinto-Rodrigues

“For Uzbek people, bread is everything,” says food expert Syuzanna Fatyan, a resident of the ancient city of Samarkand, in Uzbekistan.

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As in many countries in Central Asia and the Middle East, life in Uzbekistan revolves around bread. But here, the humble loaf – known as non – has been elevated to the status of cultural icon and art form.

“For us, bread is life itself,” says Zahid Toshnazarov, a travel guide from Uzbekistan’s capital, Tashkent.

Every village and town has its own varieties – differing in ingredients, weight, size, thickness, embossed patterns and, of course, names – but almost all are wheel-shaped.

Non for sale at Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Photo: Anne Pinto-Rodrigues
Non for sale at Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. Photo: Anne Pinto-Rodrigues

Gala Osiyo bread – named after the Samarkand neighbourhood in which it is made – has a reputation for being long-lasting. It can be edible for up to three years – needing only to be sprayed with water and warmed up – and could therefore be carried on long trips along the ancient Silk Road.

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