Hiking off the beaten track in central Taiwan’s Alishan region: coffee and tea plantations, forest trails and mountain dew
- Alishan, in central Taiwan, is a popular hiking and tourism destination, with its mountains, forests and ancient indigenous hunting trails
- It is possible to bypass the crowds and enjoy the stillness of the region, hiking through tea and coffee plantations, and sleeping in campsites
The tops of the cypress trees sway back and forth far above my head, keeping a steady, slow count. The giant trunks creak, their music accented with the occasional rattle of branches and the sigh of wind winding its way through the forest.
The rough, dull-brown trunks stand ramrod straight as they reach for the sky. Up the trail, they fade to grey in the thick afternoon mist that is rolling in, leaving the brightly coloured jackets of a few distant hikers glowing in the gloom.
I take a deep breath, inhaling the earthy smell of moss and damp wood, and resume my steep climb through the mountain forests of central Taiwan.
Alishan is one of the island’s most popular tourism destinations, complete with lumbering tour buses, large groups of hikers and overpriced, underwhelming hotels. But it is possible to avoid the crowds and enjoy the stillness this natural playground offers.
Restrictions on individual mainland Chinese tourists visiting Taiwan started in 2019; this, and the fact I am in Alishan in the middle of the week, have increased my chances of finding solitude. In addition, I have forgone a hotel in favour of camping and have rented a car, giving me a wider choice of day hikes.
