What to see in Taiwan’s oldest city Tainan as it celebrates its 400th birthday: night markets, hotpot, historic temples and colonial architecture
- Nicknamed the Phoenix City for its ability to renew itself, Tainan served as the political, economic and cultural capital of Taiwan until the late 19th century
- From buzzing night markets offering a huge range of food to buildings revealing its colonial past, the city is a bounty of design, culture and architecture
The alleyways are so narrow I can nearly touch both sides with outstretched arms.
The passage twists and turns, offering up a surprise around every corner, from cocktail bars infused with Japanese style to bookstores selling centuries of culture and cafes that invite me to rest for a while.
Although West Central, Tainan’s city centre, is a living neighbourhood, which I am reminded of when a scooter comes whizzing by carrying a mother and two children returning from school, its historical architecture and traditional cultural practices make the Taiwanese city feel ancient.
Further out, recent technology-fuelled growth creates a dynamic contrast as Tainan celebrates its 400th birthday.
In 1624, Dutch traders were chased out of the Pescadores Islands, now called Penghu, an archipelago in what is now the Taiwan Strait. They retreated 50 miles across the water southeast, to the island of Formosa, now Taiwan.
Here, in the swampy delta of the Zengwun River, at the settlement of Tayouan, they built Fort Zeelandia, and Tainan – now Taiwan’s oldest city – was born.
