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The truth about travelling in Aceh, Indonesia’s marijuana-crazy, ultraconservative Muslim-majority province, where sharia law rules

  • The semi-autonomous province in Indonesia is known for its Muslim conservatism, but as the Post discovers, Aceh guys love to party
  • From marijuana-laced food to alcoholic ‘milk’ and friendly locals, a trip through Aceh is a pleasantly eye-opening experience

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Public transport in Blangkejeren, a town in central Aceh. The Post’s correspondent was met with smiles and requests for selfies with him wherever he went in the Indonesian province, known to outsiders for its strict Islamic sharia law. Photo: Dave Smith

Recently, 23-year-old Australian Bodhi Mani Risby-Jones made global headlines after he attacked a local fisherman during a drunken, naked rampage in Aceh, an ultraconservative Muslim-majority province on the western tip of Sumatra island, in Indonesia.

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After his arrest in late April, many of the foreign news reports focused on the fact that, under Aceh’s strict sharia or Islamic criminal law, Risby-Jones faced not only a lengthy prison sentence but also a public flogging.

Described by Amnesty International Indonesia executive director Usman Hamid as “cruel, inhuman and degrading treatment” that “may amount to torture”, public flogging is frequently doled out in Aceh for apparently benign crimes such as playing live music, mingling with the members of the opposite sex, drinking alcohol, gambling, cross-dressing and same-sex relationships.

Last year, a woman collapsed twice while being flogged 100 times for adultery, and in 2018, two men were flogged for playing a children’s game considered a violation of sharia law. In the same year, the Aceh administration debated in parliament the introduction of beheading as a punishment for murder, although nothing came of it.

Tricycle taxis in Banda Aceh, the capital of Aceh province, Indonesia. Photo: Dave Smith
Tricycle taxis in Banda Aceh, the capital of Aceh province, Indonesia. Photo: Dave Smith

After striking a compensation deal with his victim for US$20,000, Risby-Jones will be allowed to return home without serving any additional time after his remand period. But the incident has reinforced the image of Aceh as a backward, primitive place populated by extremists and fanatics where foreigners should not dare tread. But is that a fair assessment?

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Before Risby-Jones disgraced himself, I visited Aceh.

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