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My favourite Thai noodles for lunch? How does weight loss work at Bangkok retreat RAKxa? By changing your attitude to food and your body

  • Food writer Chris Dwyer tries out the RAKxa wellness retreat in Bangkok and is surprised not to be weighed and to have so much tempting food to eat
  • Having chosen from a list of treatments including hyperbaric chamber therapy and hydrotherapy, he comes away with a new awareness of what food does to his body

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Shredded chicken salad with lemongrass dressing served on the dining room terrace at RAKxa, a riverside wellness and medical retreat in Bangkok whose weight-loss programme is geared to changing attitudes to food and your body, not shedding kilos alone. Photo: Chris Dwyer

Although this is my first weight-loss and wellness retreat, I imagine that it’s pretty unusual not to be weighed, either on arrival, throughout, or on departure.

Not only that, but every lunch and dinner starts with home-made sourdough bread served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. So far, so beautifully unexpected. This is going to be a piece of cake.

But after four nights at RAKxa, on a riverside in verdant south Bangkok – which feels a million miles from the city’s bustling Sukhumvit area – all will become abundantly clear. I am here not just to lose some of my robust food writer’s frame; I am to unlearn almost five decades of bad habits – and also learn some good ones.

Things didn’t start well. Walking past Burger King in Bangkok airport, I contemplated popping in to stock up on a couple of emergency Whoppers. As I was whisked through the Thai capital in the retreat’s black Mercedes S class, smoky roadside stalls beckoned with their gloriously charred and sticky things on sticks.

Author Chris Dwyer, in a hyperbaric chamber during his weight-loss retreat at RAKxa. Photo: Chris Dwyer
Author Chris Dwyer, in a hyperbaric chamber during his weight-loss retreat at RAKxa. Photo: Chris Dwyer

RAKxa is hidden away on Bang Krachao, an artificial island formed by a bend in the Chao Phraya river where life feels decidedly laid back. There’s not even a sign from the quiet laneway that leads you to spacious, manicured grounds dotted with elegant villas and wellness facilities.

Chris Dwyer writes about travel and food for platforms including CNN, the BBC and the South China Morning Post. He has visited 90 countries to date, but his long term former home of Hong Kong stole his heart like nowhere else.
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