The obscure pleasures of 40 hours on an overloaded ferry in Indonesia – no berth, indifferent food, but all humanity is here, and with stories to tell
- Indonesian company Pelni’s economy-class ferries connect the country’s big cities with its remote islands, taking people to family, funerals, and far-flung jobs
- The food and facilities are nothing to write home about and berths are at a premium, but they show visitors a side of the vast archipelago few tourists see
“Dear passengers, good morning. Breakfast will be served soon, please queue responsibly.” The metallic voice of the ship’s steward issuing from a loudspeaker overhead pulls me back from a dream into neon-lit reality.
From my inflatable mattress on the floor, I see people everywhere.
The luckier ones are slumped like sacks on the few seats available, while the majority are splayed out over the floor on thin sheets of paper, surrounded by rubbish-strewn plastic trays and cups filled with cigarette butts.
Showing proof of Covid-19 vaccination on a digital app was required to board, but very few people are wearing face masks.
On the deck outside, as the sun’s rays start to pierce the dawn, the scene is little different. Stepping over outstretched limbs, early risers line up on the staircase rising from the lower decks, where ship attendants dispense boxed meals three times daily.
