Zheng He’s Malacca: temples, the biggest Chinese cemetery outside China, and museums dedicated to Ming dynasty admiral’s legacy in the Malaysian city

European colonial buildings abound in Malacca, Malaysia, but look closely and you’ll find evidence of how early Chinese migrants shaped its culture and make-up

Admiral Zheng He turned Malacca from a fishing village into a hub of trade in the 15th century, when Chinese put down roots and a Chinese princess wed a sultan

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A statue of Zheng He at the Cheng Ho Gallery in Malacca dedicated to the 15th century Chinese admiral who turned the city in present-day Malaysia from a fishing village into a trading hub. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

Published: 1:15pm, 23 Jan 2023

Ants crawl up my arm as I shift a vine obscuring a weathered grave. A shaft of light pierces the tree canopy above, illuminating its tombstone, and I want to get a clearer look at its inscription.

I’m hoping to get a sense of how old this and other tombstones engraved with Chinese characters are, and how long they’ve stood on this forested hill overlooking Malacca, in southwest Malaysia.

The tombstones stretch to the crest of a ridge and beyond in this, the largest Chinese cemetery outside China according to a nearby museum.

More than 6,000 people, including a Ming dynasty princess, are buried in Bukit Cina, which was established more than 600 years ago by Zheng He, the Chinese admiral, diplomat and maritime explorer.

The shady grounds of Malacca’s Bukit Cina cemetery, the largest Chinese burial ground outside China. Photo: Ronan O’Connell

Hailing from Kunming in Yunnan, southwest China, Zheng He led many sea expeditions across Southeast Asia in the Ming dynasty, helping China expand its commercial and political influence. Some of his voyages were colossal, involving fleets of more than 60 ships and 25,000 men.