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Elephant safaris in a plantation? In Sabah, Malaysia, new project lets tourists and pygmy elephants interact at a distance

  • Pygmy elephants are critically endangered and their habitats in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo are being cleared for development, agriculture or commercial logging
  • A conservation group and softwood plantation are running elephant safaris and using the income to plant a natural corridor to a nature reserve for the elephants

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Pygmy elephants, in Sabah, Malaysia. Conservation has embraced tourism in the oddest of places: a safari in a softwood plantation. Photo: Shavez Cheema

Standing on the open cargo bed of a Toyota Hilux pickup truck, we rock at every bump in a muddy track that cuts through endless well-tended acacias, eucalyptus and the bulbous sprouts of oil palms.

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Behind the wheel, ranger Jamaluddin Pase negotiates every bend in the road as if he were hell-bent on reaching the darkening horizon as fast as possible.

“Be patient,” says Bruneian-Pakistani conservationist Shavez Cheema as he bumps against my right shoulder. “They’re certainly big things, but finding them in such a large area, it’s still a bit like chasing the proverbial needle in a haystack.”

We have been playing this game of hide and seek for the best part of an hour-and-a- half and, to be honest, I am ready to stop believing. But then the car slows and a loud roar smothers the noise of the dying engine.

We freeze, hearts thumping in our chests.

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“I told you: it’s rare that we don’t find them,” says Cheema, jumping off the truck, camera in hand.

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