A Laos getaway by scooter: jungle, dirt roads, wild elephants, and homestays off the beaten track
- Get off the beaten track – literally – with a trip on two wheels to a wildlife reserve in the jungle not far from Laos’ capital, Vientiane
- Ride red clay roads past temples and villages to find waterfalls with pools to swim in, without another tourist in sight, and spend the night in a homestay
Steering my scooter down the potholed red clay roads through Phou Khao Khouay National Biodiversity Conservation Area, the tyres kicking up copious dust, is an exhilarating reminder of the joys of exploring rural Southeast Asia. Listening to the yelps of my companion, however, is a reminder that these roads can induce terror for newer scooter riders.
I’m here visiting a friend who works in Vientiane, the capital of Laos, and wanted an excuse to explore outside the city. We settled on Phou Khao Khouay as the perfect weekend escape. A couple of hours northeast of Vientiane by scooter, the ride takes us past farms and small villages before the forested slopes of the park’s interior slowly come into view.
The 2,000 square kilometre (770 square mile) national park has waterfalls, rivers and a rustic homestay scheme that makes for a great overnight trip from the capital. There are rivers and diverse wildlife, including an elusive herd of wild elephants, though the largest beasts we saw on my visit were some water buffalo, lounging in a water-filled roadside ditch.
The multi-tiered Tad Xay falls drops gently through the forest into a large pool below, where a swim in the refreshingly cool water is the perfect reward after our bumpy journey from Vientiane.
About an hour further into the park are the sprawling Tad Leuk falls. While not boasting any awe-inspiring drops, the lack of tourists adds to their appeal. The fast-flowing river falls through a series of large rapids, and shallow rock pools to the side make great little swimming holes where we wash away some of the dust from the journey and rest tired arms unaccustomed to steering scooters down rutted tracks.
