Lentils and leeches: a five-day trek in Nepal’s stunning Annapurna range
- The Poon Hill Circuit trek includes a dawn hike to see the sunrise, charming encounters with Nepalese villagers, and less charming ones with leeches
- Some sections of the walk are quite challenging, although there are porters to carry most of your baggage, and hot showers every night
Standing with my new hiking poles in Birethanti, a small village 1,100 metres above sea level that straddles the Modi River, a 90-minute drive from Pokhara, I’m feeling a little nervous about the prospect of the five-day Poon Hill Circuit trek. The suspension bridge hung with prayer flags at the trail head is enough to remind me that I am in Nepal’s famed Annapurna Conservation Area, however, and my nerves soon give way to excitement as we set off.
Our group of 12 – from Russia, the UK, the Netherlands and Australia – makes its way across the ravine to Ulleri on steep steps made from schist, a layered rock with a metallic shine, mined from local hills, testing my poles.
As we take shelter from a short downpour, I hear the sounds of bells and look up to see donkeys coming towards us. “This is how they transport goods between the villages,” our guide explains.
Thankfully, we’ll have the comfort of a hot shower in the tea houses along the route – these guest houses for trekkers are similar to youth hostels. Our rooms are basic but are insulated and warm, with en suite bathrooms and power points. The food is hearty; usually we are served dal bhat, a lentil soup dish with rice and side dishes.
