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Valerie Teh

“A big welcome to Chengdu, miss!”
I am taken aback by the enthusiastic greeting and accompanying toothy grin from the sixtysomething taxi driver who meets me at the city’s Shuangliu International Airport. Though I can only make sense of a third of his words due to his thick Sichuanese accent, he turns out to be the friendliest cabby I have encountered to date in China. This is no coincidence – Chengdu is lauded as one of the nation’s most hospitable cities to visit.
A quick getaway to China’s Danxia Shan geopark offers great views, good walking – and a few giggles
For first-timers in Sichuan’s capital, a trip to the Chengdu Panda Base is a must. Beat the crowds by getting there at 7.15am to purchase tickets; when the centre opens at 7.30am, you will be one of the first to coo at sleepy baby pandas at the Sunshine Nursery enclosure.
The capital is also synonymous with its spicy hotpot. Named a Unesco City of Gastronomy in 2011, Chengdu’s culinary fame is long established in a country known for its vibrant and diverse food scene. Sichuan peppercorns are known for their mouth-numbing properties, and are one of a plethora of spicy ingredients that will have sweat and tears running down your face during your first taste of an authentic ma la hotpot.

Avoid a public meltdown by ordering a split hotpot – one half a rich, deep red liquid filled with an ominous number of chillies and peppercorns, the other comprising a less intimidating chicken or tomato broth. Other diners will also be drinking icy light beers and bottles of sweetened coconut milk to help quell the spiciness; follow their lead.
Young locals favour a restaurant chain called Biao Biao, which is only advisable for those with near-superhuman spice tolerances. An all-round crowd pleaser is Xiaolong Fandaqiao (“The Way of the Dragon”) in the city’s Kuanzhai Xiangzi alleys, whose charming waiters dance and hand-pull noodles to go in your broth as and when you order them.
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The standard Sichuan hotpot menu is full of offal, but other options such as sliced meats, fish balls and vegetables are generally plentiful as well.
Pandas and hotpot out of the way, you can now focus on the many other things Chengdu has going for it. A bian lian performance at Sanguo Teahouse in the Jinli alleys is a fun introduction to Chinese opera for the uninitiated. Literally meaning “changing faces”, bian lian involves lavishly costumed performers switching from mask to mask in an instant as they dance and move across the stage.
The tea house’s hour-long show also features a tea ceremony as well as an acrobatic act with long-spouted tea pots.

For history buffs, the archaeological treasures at a place called Jinsha reveal a little known side to the area’s past. Accidentally discovered in 2001 in urban Chengdu, the site includes palace foundations, a burial area and common dwellings in use from 1200BC to 650BC. It has yielded thousands of finds including artefacts made of gold, bronze, jade and lacquered wood and hordes of ivory and boar tusks. These finds are now displayed at both the site’s museum and a covered section of the original excavation area.
The site shows the latter stages of the ancient Shu state, a bronze-working culture that was conquered by the Han Chinese during the Qin dynasty in 316BC. Taken together with evidence unearthed at Sanxingdui, 50 kilometres northeast of Chengdu city and the earlier centre of Shu occupation, it shows the area around Chengdu was significantly occupied over four thousand years ago.
The Leshan Giant Buddha is worthy of a half-day excursion. From Chengdu, the city of Leshan is a mere hour’s high-speed train ride away to the south; the Buddha is then a 15-minute taxi ride from the station.

There are two ways to see the Leshan Buddha: to view it whole from afar via a very short ride on a dated passenger ferryboat, or to walk down from near its head to the bottom of the Buddha’s feet. Sitting at 71 metres tall, the entirety of the sculpture, carved directly from a cliff face, is not visible via the latter option, although this is the only way to get up close to the largest carved stone Buddha in the world.
A further 20-minute train journey down the same line takes you to Emeishan, where the foothills of its namesake, Mount Emei, is a short cab ride away. Mount Emei is one of the Four Sacred Mountains of Buddhism and its summit can be reached by a two-day hike with an overnight stopover.
Getting to the top requires climbing a seemingly never-ending amount of stairs and spending the night sharing accommodation with monks. Those shorter on time or energy can opt to climb a lower section of the mountain and still take in the lush flora and heady incense from the various temples that are dotted along the side of the mountain.

Three hours is sufficient to reach Qingyin Temple, a complex of pavilions, towers and platforms that dates to the sixth century and is adorned by red ribbons writ with wishes and blessings. Immediately below is the picturesque Niuxin Pavilion, a pagoda flanked by two arched bridges that looks like a traditional Chinese ink painting come to life.
Another renowned mountain easily accessible from Chengdu is Mount Qingcheng, famous for being the birthplace of Chinese Taoism in the second century AD. Less than an hour by high-speed train northwest of Chengdu, the mountain is dotted with temples built in the Jin and Tang dynasties that celebrate key elements of Taoist teachings.
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As at Mount Emei, there are hiking options to suit all schedules and levels of fitness. Two to three hours is plenty to explore the more built-up front part of the mountain, ending with a boat ride on the scenic Yuecheng Lake. Those looking for a full-day hike can take a local bus from Qingchengshan train station to the mountain’s back part. Far fewer tourists explore this section of the scenic area, leaving you in relative peace to explore the abundant Taoist temples and enjoy a wooden punt ride across Cuiying Lake before reaching Baiyun Temple at the mountain’s 2,128-metre summit.

Less tiring, but equally significant, is the nearby Dujiangyan ancient irrigation system, a feat of engineering constructed in 256BC. It controls the waters from the Min River, a large tributary of the Yangtze River, using natural topographic and hydrological features – as opposed to dams – to divert vast amounts of water to the Chengdu plains.
After modifications and additions in the Tang, Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties, the system currently irrigates nearly 700,000 hectares of farmland. An hour or two is plenty to marvel at the large scale and careful planning behind the irrigation system.
Chengdu is colloquially referred to as the Gateway to Western China, given its proximity to the high plains of Tibet. If you have two or more days to spare, the Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture is easily accessible from Chengdu via a 45-minute domestic flight to Jiuzhai Huanglong airport.
While Jiuzhaigou National Park remains closed due to an earthquake in August 2017 that devastated many of its natural features as well as tourist infrastructure in the area, nearby Huanglong National Park remains as splendid as ever.

Explore Huanglong’s otherworldly limestone formations and cerulean coloured pools by riding a cable car into the park’s mountainous valley before walking up to its eponymous Tibetan-style temple and the Five-Colour Ponds. The sharp snow-capped peaks are a reminder to slow down as you take in the breathtaking high-altitude scenery.
From there, the grass plains of Songpan are roughly an hour’s drive away. Hiking and horse-trekking across high altitude plains and mountains can be done for those seeking a taste of the nomadic lifestyle.
Unless you or your travel companions have a good level of Chinese, organise a day or multi-day trip with travel company Adventure Access, which customises its itineraries to suit your abilities. However, you will still need a base level of hardiness given the exposure to the elements while walking, riding and camping in this relatively untouched corner of western China.
Getting there: You can fly direct between Hong Kong and Chengdu with a range of carriers, including Cathay Dragon, Hong Kong Airlines and Air China. Return fares are available from HK$1,289 (US$165).




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Asia travel

The best things to do on a Chengdu visit: it’s not all pandas and spicy hotpot

Giant pandas eating bamboo at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding. Photo: Alamy

GK9RDB Qingcheng Mountain, China [30OCTOBER2017 FEATURES]

A0AF1X The Dafo of Le Shan near Chengdu in South West China. The Dafo is a 71 meter stone Buddha carved into Lingyun Hill. Image shot 2006. Exact date unknown. [30OCTOBER2017 FEATURES]

DR41AG Huanglong, China [30OCTOBER2017 FEATURES]

EY26HF Chengdu, Sichuan Province, China - December 29, 2014: Chinese artist performs traditional face-changing art or bianlian onstage. [30OCTOBER2017 FEATURES]

ANHAHW chinese traditional Sichuan food huo guo ,this very hot. [30OCTOBER2017 FEATURES]

SICHUAN, CHINA - Mar 20 2016: Qingyin Pavilion in Mount Emei Scenic Area(World Heritage site). a famous historic site in Emeishan, Sichuan, China. [30OCTOBER2017 FEATURES]

What to see and what to miss in Sanya, China’s top beach getaway

Yalong Bay, Sanya. The beach at Yalong Bay is one of the cleanest and least crowded. Photo: Scott Jagger

Another aerial perspective of Club Med Sanya, one of several upmarket beachfront resorts in the beach holiday town. Photo by Scott Jagger [FEATURES]

A Li minority woman showcases her weaving skills at Betel Nut Heritage Park. Photo : Handout [FEATURES]

Early mornings are best if you want the beach to yourself at Sanya; here is a deserted section of Haitang Bay at 6am Photo by Scott Jagger [FEATURES]

A young Chinese holidaymaker takes in the sights at the entrance to Betel Nut Heritage Park, approximately 35km inland from Sanya main. Photo : Handout [FEATURES]

A craft demonstration area at Betel Nut Heritage Park, approximately 35km inland from Sanya main. Photo : Handout [FEATURES]

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This handout image shows Camp Thyangboche in the Everest region in Nepal. Photo: Peter Walton & World Expeditions [27OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows Kiso Valley on the Nakasendo Way in Japan. Photo: Walk Japan [27OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

shutterstock_703674724.jpg This shutterstock shot of TSUMAGO/JAPAN - May 25, 2014 : Main street in Tsumago village. [FEATURES] Photo: SHUTTERSTOCK

This handout image shows Tsumago on the Nakasendo Way in Japan. Photo: Walk Japan [27OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

F1101J Traditionally dressed Japanese postman delivering the mail, Nakasendo Way, Japan. Photo: Alamy [FEATURES]

The best things to do on a layover at Shanghai’s Pudong airport, from street eats and vintage bike tours to dizzying heights

Explore 1920s housing in the former French Concession with Culture Shock Bike Tours. Photo: Valerie Teh

This handout image shows Freshly made hand-pulled noodles, one of the many tastings on tour with UnTour, Shanghai. Photo: Valerie Teh [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows Tourists from near and far taking in the Shanghai skyline from the Bund. Photo: Valerie Teh [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows Shouning Lu Seafood Street at twilight, Shanghai. Photo: Valerie Teh [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows The Soong Ching Ling Memorial Residence, located at 1843 Middle Huaihai Road in Shanghai, is the former residence of Soong Ching-ling. Photo: Valerie Teh [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows The view from the top of the Shanghai Tower, with the Shanghai World Financial Centre. Photo: Valerie Teh [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows A calligrapher, far right, shows off his skills at Fuxing Park, Former French Concession. Photo: HANDOUT [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows Normandie Apartments on Middle Huaihai Road, Former French Concession in Shanghai. Photo: Valerie Teh [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

This handout image shows Culture Shock Bike Tour - Old Town FFC Morning Tour in Shanghai. Photo: HANDOUT [26OCTOBER2017 FEATURES TRAVEL]

Lifestyle

Travel & Leisure

The capital of China’s Sichuan province has a number of more obvious attractions popular with visitors, but explore a bit further and you will find a wide variety of fascinating and breathtaking places
