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(From left) Hozefa Topiwalla, 52, Seshu Krishna Anne’s son Sagar, 27, Jaya Kumra, 52, and Seshu Krishna Anne, 54, at the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro in East Africa, the world’s highest free-standing mountain. Photo: Jaya Kumra

How climbing Mount Kilimanjaro brought 4 Hong Kong friends closer together

  • Trio in their 50s and a son, 27, from Hong Kong challenge themselves with 8-day climb to top of Africa’s highest peak in wind, rain and cold
Wellness

Exhaustion gave way to elation for Hong Kong residents Jaya Kumra, Seshu Krishna Anne and Hozefa Topiwalla after six days of gruelling uphill trekking.

The friends took in the spectacular views from Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa at 5,895 metres (19,341 feet) above sea level, as the realisation of their accomplishment began to sink in: they had summited Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.

It is the world’s highest free-standing mountain and known as the roof of Africa. It is also the most popular of the Seven Summits, the highest peaks on the seven traditional continents. Each year, 30,000 to 50,000 hikers attempt the climb.

What inspired this adventure

Kumra’s love for the outdoors was born on Dragon’s Back, a mountain ridge on Hong Kong Island. Her initiation into hiking sparked a love affair with the trails in the city, says the ex-lawyer and talk show host, who has lived in Hong Kong since 2011.
The first day of the climb begins, with Kumra in the lead. Photo: Jaya Kumra
She trekked to the Mount Everest base camp in Nepal in 2019 and she wanted to summit Kilimanjaro to celebrate her 50th birthday, but the coronavirus pandemic got in the way, she says.

“Last year I thought, why not give it a go for my 52nd birthday?”

The adrenaline rush and excitement of climbing and reaching a peak drives her, as does a challenge that pushes her outside her comfort zone.

For her friend Seshu Krishna Anne, 54, the appeal of climbing the mountain was to go on an adventure with his son, Sagar, 27. “A chance to spend eight days with him was priceless,” says the executive in a large multinational corporation.

Hozefa Topiwalla, 52, is always on the lookout for a challenge. When Anne asked him to join, the finance executive and fitness enthusiast saw it as “the perfect opportunity to push myself”.

While all three friends have spouses, none of them wanted to join in this adventure.

The group looks fresh and keen for a challenge at camp on day one of their adventure. Photo: Jaya Kumra

How to reach this peak

Climbing Kilimanjaro is difficult because of its rocky, slippery terrain and tough living conditions, says Kumra. Their climb involved six days of nonstop steep ascent on mostly rocky terrain and two days of extremely steep descent. There is no lodge; trekkers sleep in tents.

The friends set off from the Mti Mkubwa camp at 2,650 metres, with a group of porters carrying their camping equipment. They chose the 70-kilometre (43.5-mile) Lemosho route, the longest route to the top but the one with the highest success rate. Of the people who attempt it, 85 to 95 per cent make it to the top.

“The idea was to get more time to acclimatise to the elevation, giving us a higher chance of summiting,” Kumra says.

“One of the distinctive features about climbing Kilimanjaro is the changing landscape: you hike through the rainforest, moorland, alpine desert and glacial snow. As we approached 10,000 feet, the scenery transformed. Trees gave way to bushes and shrubs and the air thinned, demanding a slower pace.”

Sagar, Kumra, porters, guide Athumani (in centre with red, white and blue shirt), Topiwalla and Anne in front of Kilimanjaro, on day four of their trek. Photo Jaya Kumra

Their guide Athumani has summited the mountain more than 100 times and stressed that gradual ascent was key.

“The porters kept saying ‘pole, pole’ as we hiked, which means ‘slow and steady’ in Swahili,” Kumra says. They encouraged her, saying, “Mama Jaya is fit and mentally strong”.

They hiked for five to seven hours daily, having breakfast at 7.30am, lunch at 1.30pm, and dinner at 7.30pm, and were off to bed at 8.30pm.

There was mild to heavy rain for a few hours almost daily, and a massive storm one evening. “My tent almost collapsed, and I felt I would roll down the ridge with it,” Kumra says.

“It’s harder to sleep as the altitude increases. The temperature drops dramatically and we slept in our tents in our sleeping bag with two to three layers on.”

The night before the final climb, the hot water bag keeping her warm inside her sleeping bag burst – soaking everything. Changing into dry clothes was a big task, she says.

 

Being the only woman in the party had its own challenges. “I had to find a rock or a bush to duck behind to answer nature’s call. It was so much easier for the men,” Kumra jokes.

Anne says that day six – when they began the push to the top – was the most difficult.

“We hiked from 9am to 2pm, took a break, and then began the arduous climb to the summit at 10.30pm. We made our way through the darkness, the glow of the head torches lighting up our path.

“We were physically and mentally exhausted, sleep deprived and the temperature was freezing. The route was very steep and at times it was difficult to stay upright,” Anne says.

“The trail from the base camp to the summit zigzags up and is 7km of hiking and 1,095 metres of elevation gain, which took 14 hours. We summited at noon the next day.

“Two hundred metres before the summit, I saw an 80-year-old man labouring ahead with his guide. It was a sight I will not forget.”

Stopping several times to catch his breath, Anne sat for a bit at Stella’s Point at 5,756 metres before pushing himself for another hour to reach the top.

At the summit, Kumra says: “We had a feeling of shared pride as we sat on Uhuru Peak eating energy bars. We felt on top of the world.”

The group on the two-day descent – which was not all downhill. Photo: Jaya Kumra

After 20 minutes, they began the steep two-day downhill trek.

“You literally come rolling down,” says Anne. “There is a high risk of injury. You are advised to run down, which is counterintuitive, but is the correct technique.”

Topiwalla found the first five days of the hike easy – it was the last three to the top and down that were more challenging. The trip taught him the power of teamwork, he says.

“Despite different fitness levels, we summited and descended as a group, supporting each other in moments of weakness.”

Kumra says that, more than anything, Kilimanjaro tests your mental strength.

“Believing in ourselves and pushing through when we were not feeling our best was the key. It was sheer willpower that saw us reach the summit.”

Camaraderie between the friends and the porters’ encouragement kept them going, Anne says. He will always cherish “moments with Sagar, plodding ahead together, sometimes conversing, at other times enjoying the silence”.

For Anne (left), the appeal of climbing the mountain was to go on an adventure with his son, Sagar. Photo: Seshu Krishna Anne

The three agree that walking for up to 18 hours on summit night with little sleep in freezing temperatures was the toughest part. Getting into their clothes and prepping their gear ahead of that final ascent took more than an hour; all the while they shouted questions and words of support through the walls of their tents.

Waiting for each other – once for nearly 90 minutes – in the freezing weather was hard. But they wanted to finish together, and did. On the descent, Topiwalla and Seshu slipped a few times – without hurting themselves too much.

How they prepared

Two months before the hike, Kumra began cardio and weight training in the gym three times weekly and going for a long hike every week.
Anne, previously a regular hiker, had quit hiking for two years because of the pressure it exerted on his knees. To prepare for Kilimanjaro, he asked his trainer to focus on building his leg strength. He cut all fried foods from his diet and quit alcohol for six months.

Topiwalla had developed osteoarthritis at the age of 30; degeneration in his finger joints left him unable to play tennis, cricket or golf. He does cardio and strength training six days weekly to improve and strengthen his grip.

Sagar, Kumra, Anne and Topiwalla stop for lunch on day three of their trek. Photo: Jaya Kumra

What they learned on the climb

“The power of nature was awe-inspiring and humbling. Gazing at the diamond-studded night sky and the beauty of the glaciers, I realised what an infinitesimally small part of the universe I am,” says Anne.
“Kilimanjaro taught me that age is just a number. If I put my mind to something, I can do it. I was filled with gratitude and fulfilment,” says Kumra, who plans to hike the Annapurna mountain range in north-central Nepal next year.

“Before the trip, I knew Seshu and Jaya as acquaintances. Facing tough moments together has formed a special bond among us,” Topiwalla says.

The group on day six, with their destination in the background. Photo: Jaya Kumra

With the right preparation, anyone can climb the mountain, Topiwalla adds says. His tips for others planning to climb Kilimanjaro:

  • Drink plenty of water (4 litres before 4pm every day)
  • Walk slowly (Pole! Pole!)

  • Do not compromise on the gear, especially on hiking boots, and remember to have a neck gaiter and sunblock; and
  • Train hard in advance, doing both cardio and strength training.

It is mandatory to climb with a guide. The cost of a trek, with guide, porters, meals, and tents and equipment, is US$2,000 to US$6,000, excluding airfare.

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