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The story of Japan’s Hatcho miso, from battle rations for samurais to hotel cocktails

Made only from soybeans and fermented for two years using ancient techniques, Hatcho miso has a special place in the cuisine of Nagoya

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Workers at Kakukyu Hatcho Miso’s production plant in Nagoya, Japan, stacking rocks on casks of fermenting miso. Each cask lid is weighed down with three tonnes of rocks. Photo: Llewellyn Cheung

In a city once ruled by fierce samurai, where landmarks whisper the deeds of legendary warriors and dramatic battles, another story also began: that of Hatcho miso.

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Nagoya has a centuries-old tradition of making Hatcho miso, a paste-like Japanese seasoning based on a local recipe and using special techniques.

The Sengoku period, a tumultuous era of warring states that gripped Japan from 1467 to 1615, witnessed the rise and fall of numerous samurai clans. Amid this chaos, Nagoya, in what was then Owari province in central Japan, emerged as a crucible of power.

Its fertile ground gave birth to three of the most influential figures in Japanese history.

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How chefs in Japan’s Nagoya transform miso from a battle ration to desserts, cocktails and more

How chefs in Japan’s Nagoya transform miso from a battle ration to desserts, cocktails and more

Oda Nobunaga, a military genius, began his rise to power in Nagoya. His ambition and strategic brilliance laid the foundations for the eventual unification of Japan.

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Following in Nobunaga’s footsteps, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a former peasant who rose through the ranks, continued the aggressive pursuit of national unity.

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