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How the lost art of the Song dynasty tea ceremony is being revived by a new generation

Latte art has got nothing on the ancient Chinese art of drawing on tea foam whipped up with a bamboo whisk, these days using matcha

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How a teamaker revived a long-lost Chinese tea ceremony in 21st-century Hong Kong

How a teamaker revived a long-lost Chinese tea ceremony in 21st-century Hong Kong

The growing thirst for matcha, fuelled by posts on social media, has resulted in a global shortage of the green tea powder, puzzling producers and causing specialist stores in Japan to enforce quotas on purchases.

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Baristas from Melbourne to London cite difficulties in procuring their usual supply, and the influencers just aren’t having it – literally.

Like most teas, matcha is derived from the Camellia sinensis plant and its high price comes from its pre-harvest preparation and the labour cost of producing it.

Matcha’s signature bright green hue is thanks to a technique where tea bushes are shaded for around three weeks to enhance chlorophyll production and reduce the tea leaves’ bitterness.

Top-grade matcha is made using only the first harvest of the most tender buds at the top of the tea plant in the spring, which are hand-picked before being gently steamed, dried and ground in a stone mill.

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Lauded for its high concentration of antioxidants, sales of premium matcha are on the rise, though middle grade-matcha – often used for adulterated drinks and baked goods – is the biggest seller.

An example of chabaixi at Yuen Tea, with drawings etched onto tea foam using green tea paste. Photo: Yuen Tea
An example of chabaixi at Yuen Tea, with drawings etched onto tea foam using green tea paste. Photo: Yuen Tea
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