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Kevin Kwong

Take a bite out of history with our exclusive series on the delicious ingredients, dishes and techniques behind the unique taste of Hong Kong.
Having a mother who dares to experiment in the kitchen means home cooking in our family is never dull.
Though not a favourite of mine, her saa goeng gai, or sand ginger chicken, is memorable not least because of its distinct flavour.
The sand ginger powder is but one of many culinary essentials in her chaotic arsenal of seasonings.
Growing up in Hong Kong, our palates have been exposed to almost as many flavours as there are spices out there. And in this region, there are plenty.

Historically, China has always been an exporter of spices. That is due to its geography: most spices could only be grown in the tropical East, in the southern regions of China, Indonesia, and in southern India and Sri Lanka. Cloves and nutmeg, for instance, grew nowhere else in the world.
Spices are also highly valued because they can be used for rituals and in medicine. In Hong Kong they are primarily applied in cooking to enhance flavours and help whet the appetite.
Here we look at five popular spices in Chinese cooking and their historical roots.
1. Sand ginger
Sand ginger – or kaempferia galanga – originates from India, Indonesia and Malaysia, while a type of this plant was recorded in China around 2,000 years ago.
According to the Qimin Yaoshu, an ancient Chinese agricultural text written during the Northern Wei dynasty (386-535) and Eastern Wei dynasty (534-550), and the Yiwu Zhi, or “record of foreign objects” from the Tang dynasty (618-907), this aromatic ginger could be found growing in southern provinces including Guangxi, Guangdong, Hainan and Yunnan.
In China, the plant was primarily known for its healing properties; the New Materia Medica, published in 1757, cites its use for indigestion, colds, and various bodily aches and pains.
It was eventually used for cooking, as sand ginger can not only rid a dish of raw fish and gamy tastes but also stimulate the appetite.
While there are sand ginger recipes for beef, pork and fish, it is saa goeng gai that is by far the most popular in southern China, especially among the Hakka people.
2. Chinese cassia

Closely related to cinnamon, Chinese cassia – also known as Chinese cinnamon, or cinnamomum cassia – originates from southern China. There are cassia subspecies that can be found in Indonesia and Vietnam, while the Ceylon cinnamon comes mostly from Sri Lanka.
Produced mainly in the southern provinces of Guangxi, Guangdong and Yunnan, Chinese cassia is generally regarded as an essential herb in traditional Chinese medicine, and contemporary medical research has found that the plant can help control blood sugar.
It also contains cinnamaldehyde, which can be used to treat bacterial and fungal infections. However, excessive consumption can damage the liver.
Cassia bark, either in powdered or stick form, can be used in savoury dishes such as curries, as well as in sweet recipes such as desserts and chocolates.
The smell can be quite pungent and my mother very seldom, if ever, uses it in her cooking. So cinnamon is certainly not suited to everyone’s taste.
3. Star anise
Due to its shape, the Chinese call this fruit baat gok, which literally translates as “eight angles”. It also looks like a star, hence its name in English.
Star anise, or illicium verum, is an evergreen tree native to China and Vietnam. Its fruits are harvested before ripening and are used as a spice that tastes very much like aniseed – think the Greek liqueur Ouzo, or even licorice but more spicy.
This is an essential spice for Chinese cooking and it has, apparently, been used as such for more than 3,000 years.
Its slightly sweet fragrance and flavour go well with all kinds of meat dishes and, like sand ginger, can be used to get rid of unwanted tastes. It is most commonly found in brine (or lu shui) recipes. The spice is also a popular ingredient for Chinese vegetarian dishes because of its rich aroma.
Just like other herbal plants, star anise also has healing properties. According to the 16th-century Chinese Compendium of Materia Medica, it can treat gassy stomach, abdominal pain, hiccups, kidney deficiency, back pain and swelling in the legs.
But the plant is also considered “heated”, so best avoided for those suffering from constipation, and diabetics.
4. Turmeric

Long considered a superfood due to its many health benefits, particularly its anti-inflammatory properties, turmeric, or curcuma longa, is part of the ginger family and is native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia.
The bright-yellow chemical produced by the turmeric plant, called curcumin, is approved as a food additive by the World Health Organization. In some countries it is promoted as an alternative cancer treatment, according to Cancer Research UK.
While turmeric is used in most Indian curry recipes, it is also popular in Chinese cooking both because it adds flavour and colour but most of all because it is a healthy ingredient.
5. Five-spice powder

Any hotpot enthusiast will have come across this condiment. Five-spice powder is most commonly made up of Chinese cassia, star anise, cloves, fennel and Sichuan peppercorns. The idea behind this combination is to offer the optimal balance between the five basic tastes – sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty – and an all-round sensory experience.
In Chinese cooking, the powder is popular in poultry dishes, and can also be served with fine salt and used as a dipping sauce for hotpot.
It brings out the flavours of meat and vegetables whatever the cooking method, whether they are roasted, stir-fried, braised, steamed or boiled.


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Star anise, or illicium verum, is a popular spice in Chinese home cooking for both its taste and health benefits. Photo: Shutterstock

Star anise, or illicium verum, is one of many spices popular in Chinese home cooking for both its taste and health benefits. Photo: Shutterstock

Sand ginger chicken casserole. Photo: Shutterstock

Rolls of Chinese cassia. Photo: Shutterstock

Fresh turmeric roots. Photo: Shutterstock

Five-spice powder. Photo: Shutterstock

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Hogan Cheng, an organiser of the Bing Sutt Kongcept Festival, at Tai On Coffee & Tea Shop in Yau Ma Tei on September 4, 2024. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Hogan Cheng, co-founder of Kongcept, and an organiser of the Bing Sutt Kongcept Festival, which celebrates traditional Hong Kong food culture, at Tai On Coffee & Tea Shop in Yau Ma Tei on September 4, 2024. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Hong Kong-style milk tea is served at Hoko, in London, which is one of the venues taking part in the Bing Sutt Kongcept Festival. Photo: Hoko

Egg tarts at Tai On Coffee & Tea Shop in Hong Kong, one of the ‘bing sutts’ taking part in the Bing Sutt Kongcept Festival. Photo: Instagram/taion_coffee_and_tea

Tiffany Yeung (left) of Tai On Coffee & Tea Shop often leads walking tours around Yau Ma Tei. Photo: Tai On Coffee & Tea Shop

Bolton Cafe opened in 2024 on Ashley Road in Tsim Sha Tsui, as one of the new-wave ‘bing sutts’ in Hong Kong. Photo: Kongcept

Hoko opened on Brick Lane in East London in 2021. Photo: Hoko

Cheng at Tai On Coffee & Tea Shop in Yau Ma Tei. Photo: Jonathan Wong

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KC Koo is the owner of Hong Kong food company Fancook. He sells a line of mooncakes containing salted egg yolk with yellow lotus paste. Photo: SCMP

The Michelin-star Man Ho Chinese Restaurant in Hong Kong sells freshly baked mooncakes. Photo: Man Ho Chinese Restaurant

A salted egg yolk and yellow lotus paste mooncake. Photo: Fan Cook

Vivian Leung making mooncakes. Locofarms produced 250 boxes of mooncakes for this year’s Mid-Autumn Festival. Photo: Locofarms

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Animals of the Chinese zodiac. Illustration: Shutterstock


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Traditional Chinese walnut cookies made by Hong Kong master baker Man Fuk-on, at the Hong Kong Culture Festival, in August, 2024.  Photo: Hong Kong Culture Festival

Man Fuk-on shows how to make the dough for walnut cookies at the Intangible Cultural Heritage Mart. Photo: Hong Kong Culture Festival

Man splits the dough up as part of the walnut cookie-baking process. Photo: Hong Kong Culture Festival

Man and his protégé Karen Lee So-ting, who co-hosted a walnut-cookie-making workshop as part of Hong Kong’s 2024 Intangible Cultural Heritage Mart, with a tray of their cookies. Photo: Hong Kong Culture Festival

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Tam Tat-ming makes dragon’s beard candy at his stall in Kingswood Richly Plaza, in Tin Shui Wai. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Confectioner Tam Tat-ming is one of Hong Kong’s few remaining makers of dragon’s beard candy (above) and ding ding tong. Photo: Hong Kong Culture Festival 

Hong Kong confectioner Tam Tat-ming makes dragon’s beard candy at his stall in Kingswood Richly Plaza in Tin Shui Wai. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Tam sells his handmade dragon’s beard candy in boxes of six. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Dragon’s beard candy is filled with crushed peanuts, dried coconut, and sesame seeds. Photo: Shutterstock 

Tam makes ding ding tong at his stall in Kingswood Richly Plaza, in Tin Shui Wai. Photo: Jonathan Wong

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Tam bags up some ding ding tong at his stall. Photo: Jonathan Wong

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Hot milk tea served at Cheung Hing Coffee Shop in Happy Valley, Hong Kong.  Photo: Instagram/@maru_seki

Contestants making tea during a competition in Hong Kong in 2021 to make the best Hong Kong-style milk tea. Photo: K. Y. Cheng

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A special stamp issue on Hong Kong milk tea making, at the Hong Kong General Post Office in Central. Photo: Jonathan Wong

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A Lunar New Year poon choi feast at Ng Ka Village in the New Territories, Hong Kong, in 2017. Photo: SCMP

A poon choi feast is enjoyed by the whole community at Ng Ka Village, Kam Tin, Yuen Long, Hong Kong, at Lunar New Year, in 2017. Photo: SCMP

A high-end poon choi from Man Ho in the JW Marriott in Admiralty, Hong Kong. Photo: JW Marriott 

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Years, a vegetarian cafe in Hong Kong, created a plant-based poon choi filled with vegetarian substitutes for popular ingredients. Photo: Years

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Sand ginger, Chinese cassia, star anise, turmeric and five-spice powder have been used for their taste and health benefits for centuries


Sand ginger, Chinese cassia, star anise, turmeric and five-spice powder have been used for their taste and health benefits for centuries.
