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How Hong Kong chef Oliver Li subtly combines Chinese and French styles in his complex menus

Li talks about his dedication to perfection, French restaurant history and his work with mentor Siu Hin-chi on menus at new restaurant Jee

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Oliver Li combines his French and Chinese fine-dining training in new Hong Kong restaurant Jee, where he and his mentor Siu Hin-chi are devising complicated twists on classic dishes. Photo: Nicholas Wong/Sixteen Photography

Oliver Li does not take the easy route, you could say. While most fine-dining chefs and restaurateurs might ease into a new opening by introducing one dinner service, Li’s restaurant Jee in Hong Kong’s Central district launched right into opening six days a week, serving lunch and dinner.

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On top of this, Li is serving a highly complex arrangement of courses that are laboriously constructed and above all require a lot of time to prepare.

His dinner menus – diners can choose between eight courses or 1o – cover a lot of ground in terms of Chinese culinary techniques; there are slow braises, double boiling, stuffing and many, many things made from scratch.

The menus also show the influence of Li’s years of training in classical French cooking: in Hong Kong, he was the sous chef at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, then chef de cuisine at Whisk, L’Envol and finally Feuille in 2023, which earned a Michelin star within a year of its opening.
The interior of contemporary Chinese restaurant Jee, in Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Jee
The interior of contemporary Chinese restaurant Jee, in Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong. Photo: Jee

It’s an accomplished résumé considering Li did not initially set out to pursue French gastronomy, although he always knew he was going to be a chef.

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