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On the Menu | My secret buffet strategy to avoid awkward conversations, and why diners love them so much

  • Whether it’s Chinese, Japanese, hotel seafood or any other, buffets are much-loved by diners and everyone tackles them in different ways

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A buffet at a Chinese restaurant. Chinese-style buffets first emerged in the West in the mid-20th century, starting with the famed Chang’s Restaurant in California. Photo: Shutterstock

People tend to either love or hate buffets. I belong firmly to the former camp, and always have.

While I did draw the line at trays of lurid-orange sweet-and-sour pork glowing from London Chinatown buffets of the early noughties, my adoration for the humble buffet was cultivated from a young age.

Growing up in Calgary, Canada, in the 1990s, dining out was normally a large family occasion and we rotated between our favourite Chinese and Japanese restaurants, the occasional splurge at seafood chain Red Lobster and, my favourite, the buffet chain Foody Goody.

Even as a child I understood a buffet’s rules of engagement: scout first, try a little then load up on your favourites – even if that tended to be cubes of technicolour jello dusted in waxy-tasting desiccated coconut.

A buffet at a Foody Goody restaurant in Canada. Photo: Yelp / Gary N
A buffet at a Foody Goody restaurant in Canada. Photo: Yelp / Gary N

Foody Goody in Calgary was a popular destination for many Asian families, drawn to its promising displays of excess and relative value. Never mind that it was shut down in the early noughties due to health-code violations, according to Reddit users.

Charmaine Mok is the Deputy Culture Editor at SCMP and the desk's food and wine specialist. She has been working in food media since 2007, and most memorably drank 50 coffees over three days in the name of research. She’s devoted to telling unexpected stories of the dining scene in Asia and those who shape it, and is always in the mood for noodles and/or a cheeky beverage.
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