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Hong Kong loves Milk Bar cookies and Pierre Hermé’s macarons, but home-grown pastry chefs deserve more of the spotlight. Here’s why
- Hong Kong has long celebrated foreign pastry chefs, from Dominique Ansel and Pierre Hermé to Milk Bar’s Christina Tosi, whose cookies went down a treat recently
- Yet the city has plenty of local pastry talent, including a mille-feuille master and a chef whose dim sum-inspired mooncakes merit attention
Life wouldn’t be quite as sweet without them. I’m talking about pastry chefs and the creations they conjure – and I’ve been known to declare a lack of a sweet tooth.
In Hong Kong, there has been a history of celebrating imported names who bring their fine patisserie and intricate desserts to our shores, from the great Pierre Hermé and his kaleidoscope of macarons, to the cheeky takes on nostalgic treats by New York-based Dominique Ansel.
Judging by the excited social media chatter, there’s still a lot of cachet in the Milk Bar/Tosi name.
![Hong Kong social club Carlyle & Co. played the nostalgia card recently by offering Milk Bar cookies to its members.](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/08/23/627c6941-bbbd-4eec-a56f-670e495ecb6f_0ca9518e.jpg)
Yet there are at least a handful of top Hong Kong chefs who deserve more time in the sugar-spun spotlight, something I was reminded of during a preview for a top-tier gala dinner to be hosted by the First Initiative Foundation, an annual charity event that brings together a star-studded line-up of chefs.
![Ringo Chan at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong. Photo: Jonathan Wong](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/08/23/c86a46a3-5158-43d1-86ce-fd5c6a6b1e5d_bdac5140.jpg)
Chan has been with the hotel since 2005, joining as an assistant pastry chef as part of the pre-opening team. His pastry journey began in 1989, when he joined The Regent Hong Kong (before it turned into the InterContinental, and then back to The Regent) and apprenticed in the pastry section.
![Ringo Chan’s Mid-Autumn inspired desserts.](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/08/23/22c0898d-6785-436a-9d3c-85351b9f0087_0df13594.jpg)
Over the past 11 years that I have been in Hong Kong, I’ve observed that Chan – despite his innate talent – is not one to hog the limelight. That’s the thing about hotels sometimes – it’s more likely for head chefs and pastry chefs of the restaurants to receive the marketing push.
Keep an eye on the seasonal fruit tarts and cakes; the current season features the glorious Japanese Yamanashi peach, highlighted and complemented by simple, buttery short pastry and hints of almond, or oolong tea and vanilla.
![Ringo Chan’s signature 20-year dried tangerine peel and red bean mousse mille-feuille. Photo: Four Seasons Hong Kong](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/08/23/f1ee129f-049d-45b9-aa0a-2b1891b44707_258dbca5.jpg)
For someone so young, Yuen displays a wealth of wisdom and experience, evidenced in her approach to crafting the perfect dessert.
![Joanna Yuen of Otera. Photo: Otera](https://cdn.i-scmp.com/sites/default/files/d8/images/canvas/2023/08/23/5408b9bf-47da-4114-8f50-fc2c1b6b46e6_e6a17317.jpg)
I may not have much of a sweet tooth, but both Chan and Yuen have proven that some desserts can help change my mind.
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