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‘Humanity, commitment and strength’: the Turkish chef who’s won a global prize for using food to transform disadvantaged communities

  • Turkish chef Ebru Baybara Demir empowers displaced, disadvantaged women in female-run food enterprises through gastronomy
  • Her efforts were recognised by the award of the 2023 Basque Culinary World Prize, an initiative that recognises chefs who have a positive impact on society

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Ebru Baybara Demir (in pink headscarf) set up soup kitchens in earthquake-hit areas in Turkey, which provided almost 10 million warm meals. She has also spent her career helping displaced women, and recently won the Basque Culinary World Prize. Photo: Tansel Baybera

In a world flooded with gastronomy lists and awards such as the Michelin Guide and the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, the Basque Culinary World Prize (BCWP) is an anomaly.

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Yes, the award is presented to chefs. But rather than basing its accolades on the merits of their cuisine or the quality of service, BCWP judges them on something more noble: the transformative power of their food in creating a positive impact on society.

BCWP acknowledges that great chefs, such as Jose Andres of World Central Kitchen and Alice Waters of Chez Panisse, and their growing spheres of influence, can be powerful forces for change.

To that end, it has assembled a jury featuring some of the world’s best known chefs – among them Joan Roca, Michel Bras, Yoshihiro Narisawa and Pia Leon – academics and experts to pick a winner.

Chef Joan Roca was the head judge of the BCWP. Photo: Tessa Chan
Chef Joan Roca was the head judge of the BCWP. Photo: Tessa Chan

In 2022, Fatmata Binta from the Fulani tribe of West Africa became the first African to win the BCWP for spotlighting her nomadic food culture through her pop-up restaurant Dine on a Mat, which has travelled to Europe, the United States and Africa.

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