Amazing beef brisket and Middle Eastern flavours in Hong Kong: a travel writer’s restaurant picks
- Kam Ling has worked as a travel writer for the past 20 years, and enjoys off-the-beaten-track restaurants on her travels
- She shares her favourite restaurant for going on a journey without leaving your seat, her go-to for beef brisket, and a bargain spot for quality Cantonese food
Hongkonger Kam Ling has been a travel writer for 20 years and has published more than 50 books. Her latest is about learning to tango in Argentina. She spoke to Andrew Sun.
Travel writing is not business class jets and luxurious hotels eating Michelin-starred feasts, nor is it a nine-to-five job. The itinerary usually involves multiple flights, predawn wake-up calls (to capture a sunrise) followed by full days of touring, photos and notes. It can be exhausting, but I love it.
Some people write their masterpiece hunched over their desks; I like cafes. And there’s nothing better than writing in a restaurant. Some people are terrified to eat alone, but for me it’s a chance to let someone else cook while I relax and inhabit my travel stories.
Some of my favourite eateries are quite off the beaten path, just like my travels. Lonely Paisley (182A Fuk Wa Street, Sham Shui Po, tel: 9889 0250) was opened by backpackers stuck in Hong Kong because of the pandemic.
This travel-themed restaurant combines ethnic Middle Eastern and South Asian style. The Turkish breakfast is its signature, consisting of a simit (circular Turkish bread topped with sesame seeds), eggs and sausages, three types of cheese imported from Türkiye, four type of jams and honey, and a glass of Turkish tea. Also, try their cocktails, mocktails and craft beers.
I’m not a big fan of rice. I’d rather have noodles for lunch. The clear broth beef brisket at So Gor (Shop S036, Building 8W, 8 Science and Technology Avenue West, Sha Tin, tel: 2663 3902) is always my first choice.
Chef So Han-wen was formerly at a restaurant in Tin Hau that was only famous because of his beef brisket. I heard So, a specialist in the Chiu Chow style, prepares fresh brisket each day at 6am.
His broth is clear and authentic, and the brisket soft and glutinous. Covid-19 affected the business of the restaurant he formerly worked for, so he started his own in the Science Park.
There is an absolute gem of a Cantonese eatery called Holly Restaurant (four locations including 41 Jordan Road, Kowloon, tel: 2493 2113). If you don’t want to pay an arm and a leg for quality food, this is the place to go.
They pride themselves on using only the freshest ingredients, with a menu that spans live seafood, roast meats, and signature clay pot dishes.
Try their wine-stewed chicken with fried vermicelli, the secret-recipe beef ribs, fried bitter melon, and the always gratifying daily soup. The Jordan location is my personal canteen.
Its founder died last year but their operation’s integrity has remained intact since starting 35 years ago.
Having visited more than 150 cities and places, one of my most impressive restaurant experiences was in Madrid, Spain, 16 years ago. I heard about it from another travel guidebook.
Sobrino de Botín (C/Cuchilleros, 17, 28005 Madrid, tel: +34 913 66 42 17) was founded in 1725. It was mentioned in an Ernest Hemingway novel. They specialise in suckling pig roasted on a spit.
This amazing restaurant covers three floors. I was seated in the basement. The cellar is from 1590, even older than the restaurant. El Botin’s pig was tasty, juicy and had the best crispy skin.
