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My Hong Kong | Closure of Hong Kong’s Tung Po Kitchen is a sign that change is needed – or we lose a vital part of the city’s distinctive character

  • As more iconic local restaurants and dai pai dongs shut down, the government needs to be doing more to help them survive
  • Whether that’s lending them a hand financially or adjusting leasing and licensing laws to allow them to operate more freely, something must change

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Robby Cheung (centre), co-owner and manager of Tung Po Kitchen, toasts with customers on the second to last night in business at the restaurant at the Java Road Market and Cooked Food Centre, in North Point, Hong Kong. Photo: Dickson Lee

Like most people, I am a huge fan of eating incredible food at reasonable prices. Recently, it’s become a ritual for me to eat at the Queen Street Cooked Food Market in Sheung Wan every Friday night after a cinema date.

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Don’t be put off by its location – it’s directly underneath an unassuming municipal building and atop a wet market. But once through the double doors on the first floor, you are instantly transported to a world of gastronomic gems.

Sure, there is no fancy decor – it’s only a step up from a dai pai dong (open-air food stall), so expect harsh lighting and a hodgepodge of foldable tables and plastic stools. But because of its proximity to a wet market, you can be sure the ingredients are fresh.

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If you can tune out the cacophony of discordant clangs and bangs coming from the many kitchens, you will be treated to some of the best of local and international cuisine under one roof.

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