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Peru’s best restaurant spotlights potatoes for Singapore pop-up: high-altitude menu showcases Peruvian ‘culture and landscape’

  • The chefs behind World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 runner-up Central, in Lima, have launched a 3-month pop-up in Singapore called MASL (Metres Above Sea Level)
  • Pia Leon and Virgilio Martinez name dishes on their 11-course menu after the altitude from which the ingredients come, from -5 to 3,850 metres above sea level

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Peruvian tubers. Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon celebrate the potato on the menu of their award-winning Lima restaurant Central’s pop-up in Singapore. Photo: Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon

To many, the potato is merely a filler food that plays second fiddle on the dinner plate to meat, or another, more attractive ingredient.

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For Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon, the culinary power couple behind Central restaurant in Lima, Peru, however, the native tuber tells a story of their home country’s history, culture and resilience.

This is why, for their recently launched three-month residency in Singapore – called MASL (Metres Above Sea Level) – the humble potato takes centre stage. The couple aim to showcase Peru’s cornucopia of ingredients in a multi-course menu available until October 30, 2022.

“Our goal is to show the biodiversity, culture and landscape of Peru. That is a theme that we share in all our restaurants,” says Leon.

Culinary power couple Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon are behind the three-month residency in Singapore – called MASL (Metres Above Sea Level). Photo: Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon
Culinary power couple Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon are behind the three-month residency in Singapore – called MASL (Metres Above Sea Level). Photo: Virgilio Martinez and Pia Leon
Central is a popular foodie pilgrimage site that has been named Latin America’s best restaurant multiple times, and this year it earned the number-two spot on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Leon joined the team at 21 years old as the restaurant opened, and worked her way up to head chef.
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In 2018, she branched out to launch her own restaurant, Kjolle, while still remaining involved with her and her husband’s flagship establishment.

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