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Not just pho: 3 noodle dishes from Vietnam not to miss – cao lau in Hoi An, bun ca in Hanoi and Phu Quoc’s ‘stirring noodles’

  • If, like the late Anthony Bourdain, you were ‘put on earth’ to eat Vietnamese noodles, the country has a plethora of regional noodle dishes to try
  • In Hanoi they eat bun ca – rice noodles with fish; in Hoi An cao lau thick noodles; and in Phu Quoc bun quay, fresh-cut noodles with a sauce you mix yourself

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Cao Lau, a dish of thick rice noodles from Hoi An in central Vietnam, as reimagined by chef Peter Cuong Franklin at Anan Saigon. There are hundreds of regional noodle dishes in Vietnam to try. Photo: Anan Saigon

“People are put on earth for various purposes; I was put on earth to do this. Eat noodles right here,” said the late, great Anthony Bourdain while slurping down a bowl of noodles in Vietnam.

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The irreverent chef made dining on noodles, preferably while perched on a low plastic stool on the street, into a rite of passage for any self-respecting visitor to the Southeast Asian nation.

While in Hanoi, he famously took then-US president Barack Obama for a bowl of bun cha – chargrilled pork patties with vermicelli noodles, vibrant greens and a bowl of chilli, lime and fish sauce for dipping.

Bun cha is rightly famous, but is only one of hundreds, if not thousands, of different noodle dishes eaten around a country that today has a population of around 100 million.

Anthony Bourdain takes then President Barack Obama for a bowl of bun cha in Hanoi on an episode of his show, Parts Unknown, that originally aired in 2016. Photo: Anthony Bourdain
Anthony Bourdain takes then President Barack Obama for a bowl of bun cha in Hanoi on an episode of his show, Parts Unknown, that originally aired in 2016. Photo: Anthony Bourdain

While noodle dishes such as pho, bun cha and bun bo hue are must-eat dishes when visiting Vietnam, it pays to also seek out lesser-known but equally thrilling bowls that are specific to certain towns and cities.

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Our noodle journey through Vietnam starts in Hanoi with bun ca – not to be confused with bun cha. Bun means “rice noodle” and ca is “fish”, but that’s not all there is to this stellar local favourite.
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