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An insider’s guide to dining in Hong Kong’s Chungking Mansions: curry, chicken kebab, an African rice dish to fight over – a food tour with refugee turned banker Innocent Mutanga

  • Some Hongkongers have never ventured into Chungking Mansions, which opened in 1961. For others, it is home to their favourite restaurants and shops
  • Innocent Mutanga, founder of the Africa Centre, takes us to three of his favourite places to eat – Ghana Locals, Sher-E-Punjab and Bismillah Kebab House

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Where to eat in Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong’s iconic building of diversity

Where to eat in Chungking Mansions, Hong Kong’s iconic building of diversity

“Do you want curry?” asks a South Asian man handing out fliers to anyone approaching the famed Chungking Mansions in Hong Kong.

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Many like him linger at its entrance, promoting restaurants and shops within the complex – famed for its cheap accommodation, goods and food – on Nathan Road in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Some Hongkongers have never ventured into the large complex that opened in 1961 and includes five blocks of 17 storeys. For others, Chungking Mansions is home.
Bismillah Kebab House at Chungking Mansions. Photo: Xiaomei Chen
Bismillah Kebab House at Chungking Mansions. Photo: Xiaomei Chen

People from across South Asia and various African countries live and work in the complex.

For Innocent Mutanga, Chungking Mansions was a refuge. After he fled Zimbabwe in southern Africa in 2013 during Robert Mugabe’s rule as president, he came to Hong Kong, which he was able to enter without a visa.

“The immigration officer asked me, ‘Where are you going to stay? Which hotel?’ I didn’t really know,” he recalls. “I think she was just like, ‘Oh, are you going to Chungking Mansions?’ But, for me, I didn’t think I could afford a mansion. When I arrived, I was like, ‘Oh what a mansion. It’s a very different type of mansion.’”

Mutanga was only able to afford a few days’ stay in the complex and was homeless for a while. After he received a student visa, he studied at the Chinese University of Hong Kong to become the first asylum seeker in the city to get a diploma. He now works as an analyst in an investment bank in Central, on Hong Kong Island.
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