Chinese regional cuisine: Shandong food, defiantly humble, and the best places to eat it in Hong Kong
Shandong food is one of China’s eight classic cuisines. Big on dumplings, cornbread and noodles, its influence is seen across northern China. Restaurant operators in Hong Kong describe its traditions and how they adapt them for local palates
“Shandong food reflects Shandong people’s personalities – straightforward, generous and down-to-earth,” says Wang Hongchun, a native of the eastern Chinese province who runs a restaurant serving Shandong food in Hong Kong.
“Dishes are served in hearty portions, lightly seasoned, without garnishes. Very humble ingredients can be rendered into a fulfilling meal,” Wang says. Take mu xu rou for example, which is a stir-fry of sliced cucumber, egg, wood fungus, day lily and sliced pork. “It can’t be simpler to cook, but it’s just delicious,” he says.
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Wang opened the restaurant, Ah Chun Shandong Dumpling, eight years ago in Prince Edward, Kowloon. For the past five years it has been on the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand list of restaurants offering “exceptionally good food at moderate prices”.
Shandong cuisine, also called Lu or Lu cai, is one of China’s eight classic cuisines. Dating from the Qin dynasty 2,200 years ago and refined ever since, it has had a big influence on the food eaten in northern China – in places such as Beijing and Tianjin. Lu cuisine was regarded as the foundation of Chinese culinary culture and was popular until the 1980s, but in recent years has been eclipsed by Sichuan food.
Food in Shandong varies between coastal areas and the countryside. In the coastal cities, such as Yantai and Weihai, seafood abounds, whereas in southwestern cities like Jinan and Qufu, land animals and seasonal vegetables are common ingredients.
