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Chinese regional cuisine: Shanghainese - where to find some of the best in Hong Kong, and why you shouldn't count the calories

Shanghainese food is known for its rich, deep flavours, but the less healthy dishes might be toned down to suit local tastes. We speak to restaurateurs happy to serve up traditional recipes – but best you ask for them in advance

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Steamed xiaolongbao at 3.6.9. Restaurant Shanghai Food in Wan Chai. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Humphrey Tai is a manager and one of the owners of 3.6.9. Restaurant Shanghai Food in Wan Chai, but he insists on preparing and making the wonton and xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) himself. This way, he says, he is sure that the dishes are true to the traditional flavour and style.

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“The key to making xiaolongbao is to ensure that the skin is neither too thin nor too thick, and the ratio of lean to fat meat should be just right,” he says.

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The restaurant, located on an inconspicuous street in Wan Chai, was founded by Tai’s grandfather 54 years ago and now is helmed by Tai and his father. Tai’s grandfather, a Shanghai native, immigrated to Hong Kong in his youth, seeking a better career and life. Hungry for dishes from home, which were hard to come by back then, he decided to make Shanghai food himself and opened the restaurant with a few partners.

Humphrey Tai, a manager and one of the owners of 3.6.9. Restaurant Shanghai Food in Wan Chai, making some wontons. Photo: KY Cheng
Humphrey Tai, a manager and one of the owners of 3.6.9. Restaurant Shanghai Food in Wan Chai, making some wontons. Photo: KY Cheng

The founders’ concept was to deliver the most authentic Shanghai delicacies, so they used traditional methods to prepare the food. Tai is adamant in keeping these traditions alive as he considers them part of his grandfather’s legacy.

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Simply decorated and furnished, the humble establishment is always fully booked during meal times. While a considerable number of customers are local elderly patrons, they have also been getting a lot of younger customers in recent years. “Local youths are open to new tastes and love to follow suit when they see others sharing positive food reviews on social platforms,” Tai says.

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