How entrepreneur Ignace Lecleir became a beacon of excellence on Beijing's dining landscape

Heritage, character and charm come as standard at Ignace Lecleir's ever-expanding range of Beijing dining establishments. There is Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB), located in a Ming dynasty-era compound once used to print Tibetan Buddhist scriptures; the just-opened TRB Bites@The Courtyard, overlooking the moat, and vermillion walls, of the Forbidden City; and Copper, an event venue in a former hutong nail factory.

It is an impressive spread of options, but far from the full panoply. The indefatigable Lecleir also operates a wine-delivery service and a catering business that can organise canapes for 1,000 guests at an embassy reception, dinner on the Great Wall, or a simple cheese sandwich for a hungry office worker.

In just a few years, the Belgian has gone from hired hand - he was maître d' at star chef Daniel Boulud's restaurant in the city - to one of the most active expatriate restaurant industry entrepreneurs, with a total of 140 staff on the payroll.

Not bad for an individual who admits his first outlet, TRB, was a risky venture that could easily have tanked. The restaurant is located in a compound where monks once laboured to print Tibetan scriptures for the emperor; permission to use the 600-year-old space for commercial purposes was not easily granted. It also had the disadvantage of being located in a scruffy and narrow hutong, which is fiendishly difficult to find.

Lecleir persevered and was allowed to use one corner of the compound - a more modern building, previously used to make the city's first black-and-white TVs - as a dining spot. From day one, its classy decor, flawless service and gourmet food proved popular with Beijing foodies and in-the-know visitors.

"There was a big possibility it might not work out, it was like going to the casino," recalls Lecleir, who invested his savings in the venture. "I thought I would give it everything and be ready for a big disappointment.