Why luxury shoe brand Rene Caovilla is a hit in China, without even trying
It’s all about exclusivity, says founder’s grandson and creative director Edoardo Caovilla, who isn’t tempted to capitalise on the Italian brand’s success by reaching out to the mass market
At the touch of a button, the Venetian-style wall panels of the meeting room open to reveal a glittering showcase – rows upon rows of Rene Caovilla shoes. “OK, it’s a little bit James Bond, but it’s impressive, no?” smiles Edoardo Caovilla, grandson of the founder of the 89-year-old luxury shoe brand.
On one side of the room is the current collection, all with glittery silver soles, while the other side opens up to a treasure trove of archive pieces from the 1930s through to the 2000s.
The Caovilla brand was making shoes for the likes of Valentino, Christian Dior, Ralph Lauren and Chanel decades ago, some of these items still holding their own among an archive collection that would quicken the heartbeat of any shoe collector.
“We are unique. Rene Caovilla is the only Venetian luxury brand … started in 1928 – we are the oldest luxury shoe brand still alive today,” says 41 year-old Caovilla.
Over decades, the brand’s high-quality footwear has maintained a dreamy quality, and luxury pricing. Caovilla shoes are a favourite of celebrities, worn by the likes of Gigi Hadid, Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez and Kate Beckinsale. In China, one of Rene Caovilla’s major markets, celebrities such as Yao Chen, Shu Qi and Ming Xi are fans.
Evolution has been key to raising the profile of the once sleepy brand. While there have been rumblings of a global luxury downturn, sales of Rene Caovilla shoes, with prices starting at around US$850 (HK$6,630), have jumped since Edoardo Caovilla joined the company in 2009. Then, annual sales were US$10 million; this year the brand expects sales of around US$60 million, and Caovilla, as Business of Fashion recently reported, wants annual revenue of US$100 million in five years. He took on the role of creative director in 2013.