Paris spring-summer 2017 menswear highlights
Androgeny, punk, deconstructed looks and travel were the themes on the catwalks this season
With the spring-summer 2017 menswear shows now over, we can say that season had it all: deconstructed tailoring, punk inspired styles, travel infused collections, gender fluid designs, and last but certainly not least, the bad boy effect. Here are the top five trends from Paris.
Tailoring, revisited
Deconstructed tailoring is nothing new. In fact, designers reinvent tailoring every now and then. This season, the phenomenon succeeded at Margiela, focusing on the vision of the post-modern man and revisiting tailored garments – highlights included two-piece suits and casual wear with exposed decorative elements, such as basting stitches and apparent pins and pressure buttons. This season’s offering was both a look into the future and a melancholic gaze back at the past through re-assembled tailoring influences from Margiela’s archives. A somewhat nostalgic atmosphere that was emphasised by the show’s soundtrack, Last Year’s Man by Leonard Cohen.
Fashion’s new darling, the talented and much hyped Demna Gvasalia revealed his first menswear line for Balenciaga and left his audience smitten. Exploring his style further – think former Soviet Union aesthetics, street and sportswear influences, as well as real-life luxury – Gvasalia focused on an ’80s flavoured tailoring with boxy shoulders, oversized fits and plenty of contrasting proportions, that twisted classic menswear tailoring and turned it into something strong and subversive.