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Lisa Von Tang is a Canadian-born, Chinese-German designer. Her eponymous brand plays with Chinese style, and her goal is to inspire her customers to appreciate and flaunt Asian design. Photo: Sami Oliver Nakari

Profile | Wong Kar-wai films inspired her: fashion designer’s Chinese style looks are for the woman who ‘is a free spirit, a rebel’

  • Inspired by facets of a culture she had missed as a child, Lisa Von Tang – born in Canada to Chinese and German parents – created a brand with Chinese style
  • Her latest collection features looks that echo the silhouette and design of a traditional Chinese dress – like those in Wong Kar-wai’s ‘In the Mood for Love’
Fashion

As a young child, Lisa Von Tang craved cultural diversity.

Born in Winnipeg, Canada, to a Chinese mum from Xiamen and a German dad, she spent her early years living on the prairie before moving to a tiny town named Swan River 500km northwest of the city, followed by a stint in the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia.

“It’s not the sexiest place fashion designers are usually born,” she says with a laugh, adding that her mother was often the only Chinese person in town. “This is not your average Central Saint Martins story,” she adds, referring to the arts college in London where many designers train.

Other than on trips to visit relatives in Asia, it was only when, as a teenager, Von Tang moved to Vancouver – also known as Hongcouver, thanks to its ample Chinese population – that she was surrounded by faces like her own.

“It was so nice to be around that mix and I finally felt comfortable,” she tells the Post, wearing one of her own statement shearling jackets during a Zoom call from Milan, in Italy.

Although she had long set her heart on becoming a fashion designer, Von Tang’s goal did not feel all that attainable and she decided to study political science instead.

A young Von Tang. Photo: courtesy of Lisa Von Tang

“I didn’t have the role models in the industry, the mentorship, so it seemed like a far-fetched dream,” she says.

Being raised by a hardworking immigrant and single mother had an impact, too. “She was like, you’re a doctor or lawyer, you’re not going to do something risky.”

Nonetheless, Von Tang’s namesake brand was born – initially as a hobby, then as an official business in 2017, by which time she had settled in Singapore.

While working as a model in her university years, she spent more than a year in Hong Kong and fell in love with the tailoring shops peddling cheongsams – traditional Chinese dresses also known as qipao – in luminous silks.

Inspired by these facets of a culture she had missed as a child, she began making silk velvet robes framed with brocade trim, tailored suiting and quilted bomber jackets for “people who’d always wanted something Asian inspired but not ‘Chinese New Year’”.

Von Tang poses for a picture. Her namesake brand was born initially as a hobby, then as an official business in 2017. Photo: Dean Raphael

Looking back, the designer admits her work was more about cultural pride than producing a commercially viable product. “I was loud, proud, Asian and in your face,” she says.

Within a few years, she had attracted a loyal customer base and grew the brand online during the Covid-19 pandemic through online platforms including Farfetch and The Webster. A global reach, and a wider network of stockists, are very much on the cards.

Nowadays, Von Tang’s third-culture upbringing still underscores her collections – a runway show for her autumn/winter collection during New York Fashion Week last month featured gowns and separates that echoed the cheongsam’s silhouette and button design – but she makes room for other elements to shine. One of them is sustainability: the show featured models in knitwear made of recycled nylon and alpaca wool.
Moreover, the entire line-up was produced in a factory powered by solar energy, and the brand continues to source more than half its fabric from suppliers of luxury deadstock – unsold inventory that has been lying in storage – Florence, Italy.

The collection was inspired by the feng huang, a Chinese mythological bird, and some looks, like a sequinned catsuit, referenced the motif explicitly. Others, like the silk separates boasting a liquid-like sheen, were more pared back.

“It’s more me now: me full-bodied, and reflecting the aspects of my heritage, but not so bluntly,” Von Tang says.

Von Tang walks the runway with a model sporting a look from her autumn/winter 2023 collection. Photo: courtesy of Lisa Von Tang
She nods to the history of the cheongsam – and lists the women in Wong Kar-wai films and Hong Kong’s 1960s fashion as inspirations – but does not shy away from putting a daring spin on the garment.

“The role of the Asian woman has historically been quiet power, power from behind, and that’s reflected in the silhouettes, which are elegant and demure and hospitable,” she says. “This idea of what makes a good lady, and a respectable woman, I wanted to smash it and create a different version.”

The Lisa Von Tang woman, she says, is a free spirit, a rebel, and embodies elements of Asian culture but owns it in different ways.

Von Tang poses for a picture. Her designs nod to the history of the cheongsam but she does not shy away from putting a daring spin on the garment. Photo: Ethan Rosentreter

Von Tang’s goal is to inspire her growing cohort of customers to appreciate and flaunt Chinese and Asian design.

“I get a sense of satisfaction when I see elements of Asian design worn out of context,” she says. Appreciation and credit are key, and the designer hopes her work will draw a bigger community by reflecting her third-culture upbringing.

“I foresee future collections where we also expand on the definition of what it means to be Asian from multiple viewpoints: Asian-American, mixed, trans, LGBTQ,” says Von Tang.

Often the Western world fetishises Asia … By just being authentic to my own experience, and the experiences of my tribe and team, I feel what we are expressing is colouring in identities at a global stage that deserve to be understood.”
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