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How Putin’s US$14,000 coat, Zelensky’s green T-shirts and Macron’s air force hoodie send a message to the world

  • Vladimir Putin’s Loro Piana jacket and Kiton jumper, which he wore to a recent rally, were designed by their sheer cost to cement his strongman status at home
  • In stark contrast, Volodymyr Zelensky’s combat gear, worn since the invasion began, evokes the feeling that he is sharing in his nation’s pain as an equal

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Russian President Vladimir Putin 
wears a US$14,000 Loro Piana coat with a US$3,000 roll-neck jumper at a concert marking the eighth anniversary of Russia’s annexation of Crimea at Luzhniki Stadium in Moscow, Russia, on March 18, 2022. Photo: Reuters

When Vladimir Putin wore a puffer jacket costing 25 times the average monthly salary in Russia to a pro-war rally in the country on March 18, his choice was about a lot more than just warmth.

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He paired the US$14,000 Loro Piana coat with a US$3,000 roll-neck jumper by another Italian brand, Kiton, in a move that would mean political suicide in many countries – but which was designed by its sheer cost to cement his strongman status at home.

Power dressing for men is an increasingly complicated sport, as shown by a new exhibition on menswear being held at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A). Sponsored by Gucci, the exhibition features everything from a ball gown worn by Harry Styles to a JW Anderson leather bustier and a former prime minister’s suit.

It also includes this telling quote from Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele: “In a patriarchal society, masculine gender-identity is often moulded by violently toxic stereotypes …

“It’s time to celebrate a man who is free to practise self-determination, without social constraints, without authoritarian sanctions, without suffocating stereotypes.”

Putin rides a Harley-Davidson Lehman Trike in 2010. Photo: AFP
Putin rides a Harley-Davidson Lehman Trike in 2010. Photo: AFP

Unsurprisingly, the political leaders who currently hold the globe’s future in their hands tend to dress on the more masculine side of the fashion spectrum.

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