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Opinion | Luxury fashion brands like Chanel and Dior need to evolve. Here’s how it could start

  • Luxury brands dealing with the fallout from the coronavirus need to find alternatives to unsustainable business models
  • One way is looking to the less trend-driven segment of hard luxury, namely jewellery and watches

Reading Time:3 minutes
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Dior’s fall/winter 2020 show at Paris Fashion Week in March.

The impact of the coronavirus outbreak has been catastrophic for the luxury industry.

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Months of store closures, disruptions to supply chains, a dramatic plunge in traveller numbers and a series of lay-offs have ended a decade of growth and optimism for luxury groups such as LVMH, Kering and Richemont.

While recovery is on the horizon – industry watchers point to the last quarter of 2020 as the beginning of a turnaround – things will never be the same. That’s why this is a good time to take stock and look at a new way forward for a fashion industry that even before this recent development was in need of a big readjustment.

Thanks to growing middle classes in countries such as China, where millennials have made conspicuous consumption their favourite pastime, the fashion industry has experienced a decade of excess. More collections, more events, more brands, more far-flung cruise shows, more “drops” and more “activations” have been needed to feed this seemingly insatiable beast, regardless of issues such as overproduction and a relentless pace that has taken its toll on industry professionals.

Many luxury stores have had to close as a result of the coronavirus outbreak. Photo: EPA-EFE
Many luxury stores have had to close as a result of the coronavirus outbreak. Photo: EPA-EFE
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As high-end labels start to plan ahead for a post-coronavirus reality, they might do well to look to a sector close to home: the less trend-driven sector of hard luxury, namely jewellery and watches.

While jewellery labels such as Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels are as marketing-focused and business-minded as their fashion counterparts, they work at a slower – and more humane – pace. They release high jewellery collections once or twice a year (usually during the biannual haute couture shows in Paris) and more affordable, entry-level ranges when they see fit, operating without the constraints and unreasonable deadlines of a fashion calendar that forces designers to have something new in stores every month.
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