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Review | Late Chinese artist, influencer and Pierre Cardin collaborator Madame Song celebrated in slightly overdone M+ museum exhibition in Hong Kong

  • Madame Song: Pioneering Art and Fashion in China charts the life and works of Chinese artist and influencer Song Huai-kuei, who died in 2006
  • The exhibition at the M+ museum of outfits, photos, films and art, like the shoulders of the Pierre Cardin fashion Song helped sell, feels overly padded

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Dresses by Pierre Cardin, whose fashion Song Huai-kuei helped promote in China, are displayed at the M+ museum next to a blown-up photo by Yonfan of Song leading a fashion shoot at Beijing’s Forbidden City circa 1980 with models she trained. Photo: May Tse

The approach to M+ museum from Elements mall is currently lined with a series of posters, which begin with the question: “Who is Madame Song”?

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Further posters provide answers: “Artist. Entrepreneur. Fashionista. Influencer.”

Song Huai-kuei (1937-2006) might have been puzzled by some of those labels but, in its latest special exhibition “Madame Song: Pioneering Art and Fashion in China”, M+ is keen to position her as a strong woman for our times.

Her life, however, was undoubtedly shaped by two men – her husband, Bulgarian artist Maryn Varbanov, and the French fashion designer Pierre Cardin.

Song Huai-kuei in a Pierre Cardin evening dress at Maxim’s Beijing in the mid-1980s. Photo: Yonfan
Song Huai-kuei in a Pierre Cardin evening dress at Maxim’s Beijing in the mid-1980s. Photo: Yonfan

Varbanov, who specialised in fabric sculpture, met Song in 1954 when, as a student, he came to Beijing where Song was studying at the Central Academy of Fine Arts. Their marriage in 1956 was the first between a Chinese citizen and a foreigner since the founding of the PRC.

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