Dish in Focus: Marmitako at Spanish restaurant 22 Ships
Moving from a more intimate Wan Chai venue to the much larger and historic PMQ in Central has done the restaurant no harm, thanks to a new menu
When 22 Ships revealed it was moving from Wan Chai to Central, there was consternation among the Spanish restaurant’s dedicated fan base. First there were worries that by nearly tripling in size, the restaurant would lose its familiar, intimate feel. There were also concerns that taking over the site formerly occupied by Sake Central – previously a dark, cavernous space without windows – was at odds with 22 Ships’ previous open-plan design. Then there was the philosophical question – can it really be 22 Ships if the restaurant is no longer located at 22 Ship Street?
Ultimately, all such concerns have proved unfounded. The new look 22 Ships has been a huge success since reopening this autumn, fully justifying the move to PMQ. But it’s not just the move across town that has helped the restaurant reach new heights – a new menu with new dishes has also proven a draw.
The star of the updated menu is the marmitako. Inspired by a traditional Basque fish stew, this modern take is centred around mackerel infused with smoked red pepper. A mix of the contemporary and traditional, it’s the perfect advert for 22 Ships.
“I have a fondness for bonito and other blue fish, like sardines and mackerel,” says enthusiastic chef Antonio Oviedo, describing the origins of the dish. “I love refining and serving this fisherman’s stew, which is typically made in large pots on boats. It’s incredibly satisfying to see customers savouring every last drop of the sauce with bread.”
Oviedo goes on to explain that his marmitako is a very personal dish, one inspired by childhood memories of his mother’s ability to cheer the entire family with a simple stew, and also his father’s roots in La Bureba, a small region on the Euskadi [Basque Country] border, that have proven a strong influence on his cuisine. “When you have a well-defined memory of a dish, like marmitako, it’s easy to recreate it with the right ingredients,” he says.
The creation of the dish has a long tale. Although the immediate preparation takes only a couple of days, the garum condiment used to enhance the marmitako sauce, made by fermenting sardines, mackerel and anchovies, needs to sit for three months before it is ready to use.
