Tired of turkey? The best roast goose in Hong Kong for this Christmas season, from restaurants Kamcentre and Man Ho to Hong Kong Cuisine

Read on for a delectable trio of experiences, with each restaurant showcasing distinctive techniques and flavours in the making of the Chinese culinary highlight

Reading Time:5 minutes

Roast goose has long been a favourite with local diners, in part because it has often been cheaper than chicken. Photos: Jocelyn Tam

Published: 7:00am, 15 Dec 2024

In many countries, Christmas isn’t Christmas without a large roast bird at the centre of the culinary celebrations. These days, turkey is the bird of choice, but goose used to be the preferred, more affordable option – until Scrooge barges in with a turkey as a treat, the Cratchits are planning to eat a goose in A Christmas Carol.

Here in Hong Kong, meanwhile, roast goose has never fallen from favour, irrespective of the time of year. Whether hung on display at barbecue shops or simmered in hearty braises at a restaurant, the goose remains a humble yet beloved part of local cuisine, whether eating at home or dining out.

At this festive time of year, we look at three local restaurants that take special care to elevate roast goose to show how the bird can be a fitting centrepiece to any meal.

1. Kamcentre Roast Goose – roasted pipa goose

Prepping a roast goose at Kamcentre Roast Goose, at the South China Athletics Association in Causeway Bay. Photo: Jocelyn Tam

Nestled in the South China Sports Association (SCAA) complex at the back of Causeway Bay, Kamcentre Roast Goose has long been considered a hidden gem for Cantonese barbecued meats. Run by Jacky Kam, of the family who founded the celebrated Yung Kee, the restaurant has garnered rave reviews. In recent years, the establishment has branched out to add digs at Basehall Two and a pop-up at Holt’s Cafe at the Rosewood Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s proudest creation, its roasted pipa goose, must be reserved at least 24 hours in advance. Served on a stand, neck stretched out, the dish is named after the pipa, a Chinese string instrument.

At the helm of the original branch is executive chef Fung Ho-tong. He says that duck was originally used in this dish, but the fattier goose is more substantial and more popular than the leaner, gamier bird.

Traditionally, roast goose is best created using black-maned Chinese geese that weigh around 3 kgs. With shorter necks and stubbier legs, the black-maned geese have a plump frame with thicker flesh around the breast and back.

At Kamcentre, the bird is first spatchcocked, with the breast bone removed to spread the bird out like an open book. “We must also debone the wing tips and the drumstick, as these areas pop out from the bird’s exterior and may catch in the frame and burn during roasting,” Fung explains.