What is an izakaya and why do Hongkongers love these casual Japanese eateries? From Central’s Akatsuki and The Aubrey at the Mandarin Oriental, to the traditional En Tsim Sha Tsui and Rakuen
Fukuro, Nadagogo and Yurakucho are 3 more popular takes on the concept, but their differences leave some asking – just what makes an izakaya anyway?
You can’t talk about Japanese dining in Hong Kong without mentioning the term “izakaya”. From traditional neighbourhood establishments to modern interpretations with sweeping harbour views, they have become a cornerstone of the city’s dining scene. But what exactly is an izakaya, and why do Hongkongers keep coming back for more?
A recent addition to the city’s izakaya landscape is Akatsuki Izakaya on Duddell Street in Central. Describing itself as “a vibrant and value-driven izakaya experience”, Akatsuki joins a long list of restaurants marketing themselves as part of this enduring trend. The likes of Fukuro, The Aubrey, Nadagogo and Yurakucho – all very different concepts – brand themselves as modern izakayas, but are they reflective of the concept as it is understood in Japan or is the term just meaningless marketing fluff?
Defining what constitutes an izakaya can be hard. At its core, they are something like Japan’s answer to a pub – a casual after-work spot where patrons gather over drinks and small plates. Oshima Den, a long-time Japanese resident in Hong Kong, and Kwan Chung-kit, a local Hongkonger who shares Den’s passion for Japanese cuisine, offer a unique outlook. Their YouTube channel 大島與龍威, which has over 166,000 subscribers, focuses on Japanese dining culture in Hong Kong. “An izakaya is a bar in Japan, but with food served”, they explain, adding that there are no rigid rules about the menu; rather, the uniqueness of each izakaya typically comes from its speciality dishes.
Some izakayas focus on certain foods, such as yakitori or oden. These speciality restaurants are still considered izakayas as long as they maintain a casual, alcohol-centric atmosphere. “As long as it serves alcohol and Japanese food and opens at night, it can be considered an izakaya,” Oshima and Kwan say, highlighting the flexibility of the term.
Historically, izakayas originated as places where people would sit and drink sake. Over time, they evolved into spaces where both the food and the drink shared equal importance.
“The traditional izakaya atmosphere is difficult to replicate,” Oshima and Kwan note, explaining that, in Japan, servers and owners often interact with customers, creating a warm, communal vibe that transcends just food and drink.
