Dish in Focus: Why the smoked butter chicken at Leela stands out from the rest

Every Indian restaurant has its own recipe for butter chicken – but few have a version as special as Leela in Hong Kong. Some places serve it overwhelmingly creamy, at others it is noticeably sweet and a few, like Leela, serve it with a distinctly smoky flavour.

One of the most popular Indian dishes around the world, butter chicken can also be found on menus under the name chicken makhani or murgh makhani. The classic recipe is often credited to the founders of the restaurant Moti Mahal, either back when they lived in modern day Pakistan or following the Partition when they moved to New Delhi.

“I love the simplicity of the few ingredients that come together to create this dish,” he enthuses, “but I’m also fascinated by its sheer complexity and the different layers of flavour that can be experienced on the palate. [The gravy] pairs beautifully with chicken, of course, but with just a little tweaking, it can complement almost anything – be it lobster, paneer, prawns, beef, lamb, jackfruit, crab, fish, veal, venison or partridge.”

Tuli perfected this version in a relatively brief two weeks. Caramelised tomatoes are slow cooked for six hours to reduce their acidity, and combined with spices for some earthiness. Honey provides a subtle sweetness that counteracts the acidity of the tomatoes, while Kashmiri chillies add some fire. Pungent mustard oil alleviated by plenty of butter and cream completes the package.

For an extra special touch, guests can choose to have the dish cooked with Laphroaig whisky. The rationale was simple: since the dish already houses a smoky flavour, why not take it to the next level and incorporate an Islay whisky for extra smokiness, a peaty punch and an added level of complexity? Flambéed tableside, this version of butter chicken is truly unique in Hong Kong.