Amy Wu

Opinion | Are old prejudices against Asian-Americans behind the new racist targeting of Chinese food in coronavirus-hit US?

Chinese restaurant numbers in the US, which have been falling for years, are dropping off a cliff due to fear, ignorance and racist associations with contagion, a product of the pandemic and even, perhaps, a sad reminder that old prejudices linger

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Asian-Americans from Boston’s Asian-American Commission protest on the steps of the Statehouse on March 12, against racism, fearmongering and misinformation aimed at Asian communities amid the pandemic. Photo: AP

Amy Wu

Published: 3:00am, 4 Apr 2020Updated: 3:53am, 4 Apr 2020

I am a food fanatic – I love to eat and my close friends know that, as part of my dining ritual, I snap photos of the dishes and share them on my social networks. Food is not only a necessity and a platform for socialising, but also provides a deep connection to my personal history and cultural heritage.

And Chinese food remains my favourite as it reminds me of home. As a first-generation Chinese-American, food is a powerful link to the language, holidays and celebrations that I have worked hard to hold on to, knowing how fragile it can all be.

In recent weeks, I have watched in dismay, sadness and now anger, as Chinese food became a springboard for exorcism with the stereotypes and, at times, racism that has emerged with the Covid-19 crisis. Chinese restaurants in the United States – already steadily declining in number due to the lack of younger people who want to take over the business from their parents – have rapidly diminished due to the virus.

The closures – many likely to be permanent – have less to do with health risks and food safety than a perception that Chinese food is unsanitary and the cause of a virus that is now global. The perception has little basis and has been further stoked by US President Donald Trump, who has repeatedly referred to the coronavirus as the “Chinese virus”.

Hurtful comments that come from fear and ignorance, or border on racism, have surfaced on social networks including food-centric Facebook groups. I have seen comments from educated and professional folk on everything from why anyone would request information on Chinese restaurants, considering what has happened, to how the Chinese government should better feed their people so they do not need to eat wild animals such as bats.

As a result, most Asian restaurants and markets are suffering. The irony is that Chinese restaurants and Asian food markets are known for reliably serving people of all races and ethnicities. The Chinese chain supermarkets that began opening in New York’s upscale suburbs in recent years draw a robust Caucasian population attracted to the fresh foods and diversity of produce.