Festival time in New Orleans is looming and if you fancy visiting during Mardi Gras (February) or Jazz Fest (April and May), now's the time to book. At any time of year, however, this city is dedicated like no other to eating, drinking and having a good time. A few handy hints will help you suck the very best out of The Big Easy, like a Louisiana crawfish from its shell.
The historic French Quarter is where you'll want to stay, and there's a huge range of hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs. The best address in town, though, is the Omni Royal Orleans Hotel.
Half a block from the hotel is Brennan's, renowned for having one of America's most indulgent breakfast menus. A typical Brennan's breakfast goes like this: Brandy Milk Punch; Southern baked apple doused in cream and served with cinnamon toast and chicory-laced coffee; crabmeat omelette with sauteed mushrooms; and Bananas Foster - one whole banana sliced lengthways, flambeed in white rum, banana liqueur and brown sugar, served over vanilla ice cream.
It's just a few minutes' walk from the restaurant to the streetcar stop on Canal Street, where you can embark on one of America's quintessential urban rail journeys. In operation since 1835, this is the world's oldest streetcar line. It runs through the Garden District, past dozens of grand 19th century houses, fronted by ornate lead-light windows and stately columns and verandas. Rattle past Loyola University before hopping off at Audubon Park for a stroll to the Mississippi River or a visit to the zoo.
Returning to the French Quarter, you might be ready to lunch Louisiana-style at Acme Oyster House. Its sign, reading 'waitress available sometimes', sums up the organised chaos of this French Quarter institution. Grab a stool at the bar, where oyster shuckers whip open shells and scatter oysters onto trays as fast as you can slurp them down. Follow these briny bivalves with a fried shrimp and oyster 'po' boy' (the definitive Louisiana fast food - a half baguette with filling and salad). They've also got Creole favourites such as seafood gumbo, jambalaya, red beans and rice, fried crawfish and fried soft-shell crab.
For a city famous for its food, it's a good thing New Orleans is also made for walking. Laid out as a simple grid, it's possible to spend days here exploring just a few square blocks. Meander along Royal Street, popping into art galleries, fashion shops, antique stores, sculpture showrooms and strange boutiques selling voodoo charms and handmade jewellery.
