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Suzanne Harrison

Ask any skincare expert how  best to slow the ravages of time on our complexion and most will answer that daily application of sunscreen is the first and most important line of defence against ultraviolet rays - UVA and UVB. 
This is not only true when there is exposure to direct UVB rays during sunny days, but also from exposure to UVA rays, that cause damage on an overcast day. 
'UVA penetrates deeply into the dermis, causing degeneration in collagen and elastin, which leads to wrinkles and sagging,' says Kanako Yamauchi, group manager of product and market development at Japanese skincare group IPSA.
'UVB penetrates the epidermis, causing sunburn, which leads to dark spots, freckles  and dryness.'
According to Hong Kong-based dermatologist Grace Chan - also the medical director of Guerlain Skin Focus - the belief is that 80 per cent of signs of skin ageing are caused by UV rays. 'UV rays directly break down collagen in the skin and produce free radicals, which cause a cascade of biological reactions leading to further damage to the blood vessels, epidermis and dermis,' Chan says.
Thankfully, the new breed of sun care products out there now protect against UVA  and UVB, and also include anti-ageing antioxidants or other hydrating ingredients  to combat damage from foul air and drying  air-conditioning. 
Furthermore, some make-up and daily moisturising products also double as sun protection devices, giving further protection against wrinkles and brown spots.
However, some beauty experts say that a foundation/moisturiser with SPF 15, or the basic SPF 15 sun block alone, may not be enough in the summer time. 
Instead, women should take their skin type and daily activities into consideration when it comes to sun care. 'Every woman has to adapt her sun protection to her lifestyle,' says Marie-Helene Lair, head of scientific communication for Chanel. 
'For example, an SPF 15 provides the right level of sun protection during winter and the beginning of spring. But it is absolutely not enough for a lunch [outside] during summer.'
Yet for those with skin problems, loading their complexion with more cream may be a turn-off and may lead to problems blending  with make-up. 
Those in the beauty industry suggest looking for certain ingredients in sun care products that can benefit skin and are so fine they don't mess with your foundation or cause blockages, making that extra application quick  and unfussy. 
Chan says some of the newer products are 'very elegantly formulated, feel weightless and invisible under make-up'. 
First, she says, choose formulations that are labelled 'oil-free' and non-comedogenic. Gels, gel-creams and spray-mist are usually less sticky than lotions and creams, she says. 
Her favourites include Ulta MD Skincare UV Clear SPF46, Guerlain's UV Shield Brightening Pearl Perfection SPF 50 PA+++, and Pevonia's Hydrating Sunscreen SPF 30. 
For comfort on the skin during the heat, Lair says  Chanel has formulated a product that, when applied, is like an invisible veil. 
'This product is UV Essentiel. It is a selection of smart pigments in a light texture,' she says.
On the anti-ageing front, Randolph Cheung, regional education and training manager at Laura Mercier, says their oil-free sun protector contains super-hydrating, yet non-oily ingredients, such as deep sea water, recommended to avoid a greasy look. 
'A new skin protecting technology  called adaptgens is highly recommended,' Cheung says. 'It helps allow skin to adapt to extreme heat or cold conditions. Skin becomes calm and less active in secreting excess oil.'
Yamauchi says their new protector series range of products contains rose apple leaf extract, said to prevent DNA damage caused by sun and free radicals. 
It also includes acetylated hyaluronic acid, a known anti-ageing ingredient that plumps skin and provides moisture. Yamauchi says it also works well under make-up. 
'It provides powerful UV protection and a moisture retention effect together with a light texture, which allows the protector to be spread thinly and evenly over the skin surface and does not feel sticky,' she says. 
In a rush in the morning and can't reapply later? When it comes to combining make-up with the best SPF ability, Cheung says use a mineral make-up foundation rather than a liquid foundation with SPF.
'Mineral make-up is highly recommended as minerals are natural sun protectors. It's particularly recommended for sensitive skin.' 
Harvey Tsao, training manager for Chantecaille, says a busy woman needs something simple and one that won't take them forever to apply. 
'Chantecaille's Firming Sun Cream and Just Skin are good choices. The firming cream has an SPF 30 and is also a moisturiser that can be used every day. Just Skin is a foundation, moisturiser and sun block all in one,' he says. 
Yet dermatologist Chan stresses that her advice of the all-important extra layer of protection does not take long to apply alongside make-up in the morning.
'Make it a habit, just like brushing your teeth or combing your hair,' she says.
First, she advises, apply moisturiser, let it sit for a while to absorb (about one minute), then apply sunscreen and let that set for two to three minutes (change your clothes or set your hair during this time, or even have your morning coffee), then apply make-up. 
'It should take less than 15 minutes.'



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