In a material world, embroidery conserves the cultural threads

Their designs are striking, in fuchsias, emeralds and cobalts, and feature intricately detailed pastoral scenes. And for one veteran tour guide, these Qing dynasty Han and minorities' costumes and accessories are also collectibles that reflect the economic changes on the mainland during the past three decades.

According to 57-year-old collector Don Cohn, every item tells a story on a multitude of levels: the expertise of the woman who embroidered it; the culture that provided the environment for such time-consuming work; as well as the beauty of the piece. His collection of colourful fabrics will be on display this weekend at Cloth Haven in Sheung Wan.

Also on show are hand-embroidered, mostly silk pieces ranging from ceremonial costumes made to be worn only once, to earmuffs and belt pouches for daily use. Most have been conserved in pristine condition since the 19th century.

The American's fascination with China started in college, where he majored in Chinese studies. His first trip to Asia was in 1972, followed by a master's degree in Chinese at Columbia University, which included a year in Taiwan studying the language.

'The US didn't have diplomatic relations with China at that time, so I went to Taiwan,' says Cohn. 'I started collecting folk art, woodblock prints - anything authentic. My interest has always been in vernacular art. It was what I could afford.'

Cohn first encountered Han embroidery when he operated tours throughout China in the late 1970s and early 80s. Tourists wanted to buy souvenirs, but this was difficult with the lack of appropriate items at state-run Friendship stores.