1 Babington's Tea Rooms and Caffe Greco
Tea or coffee? Why not have both by visiting Babington's Tea Rooms and Caffe Greco, both near the Spanish Steps. Babington's was founded in the 1890s and has since become a restaurant, as well as a homely tea room. It serves 25 varieties of tea, prepared specially by Woodham's of London. Among the illustrious to have dropped in for a cuppa are Ingrid Bergman, the Italian royal family and Caroline of Monaco. In winter, there's a roaring fireplace (Piazza di Spagna 23, tel: [39] 06 678 6027). Caffe Greco, open since the 18th century, is a more formal affair, with waiters in evening dress serving cakes and sandwiches to nibble with drinks. It's worth a visit simply for the walk through history. The walls are covered with photographs, sketches and documents of the famous who have frequented it: Buffalo Bill, Byron, Shelley, Mark Twain, Henry James, Baudelaire, Mendelssohn, Bizet, Liszt and Wagner, to name a few - although the coffee is excellent too (Via dei Condotti 86, tel: [39] 06 679 1700).
2 New Rome
As you leave central Termini railway station, the zone to the left is new Rome, a multi-ethnic farrago, with musical performances often enlivening the central Piazza Vittoria. There are large Chinese general stores, herbal shops and restaurants such as the inexpensive Hang Zhou, specialising in Beijing and Sichuan fare, whose speciality fish dishes have featured on Italian TV (Via San Martino ai Monti 33C, tel: [39] 06 487 2732). At Piazza Dante 23 is the Syrian-Lebanese restaurant Zenobia (tel: [39] 06 7049 0488), run by an archaeologist, which features belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. At Via Merulana 221 you'll find the Egyptian Shawarma Station (tel: [39] 06 488 1216), which serves great kebabs and a good variety of couscous. Little India and Little Bangladesh centres on the Via Turati market, and the best tandoori can found at Himalayas Kashmir at Via Principe Amedeo 325 (tel: [39] 06 446 1072). The Aquario, a handsome, early 19th-century former aquarium, is surrounded by African food stalls and shops selling fabrics and knick-knacks.
3 The Pope
Pope John Paul used to visit his followers worldwide, but because of his fragility, now doesn't move far beyond Rome. Every Sunday at noon he appears at his study window, high above St Peter's Square, to give a blessing. Bring binoculars for a close-up view. He can also be seen on Wednesday mornings when he gives a general audience, either in the square or a nearby hall, but tickets are needed for both. To obtain a ticket for a papal audience, fax the Prefettura della Casa Pontificia on [39] 06 6988 5863 not more than a month and not less than two days in advance, specifying your name, home address, Rome address, the date you want the ticket and whether you want to attend a general audience or Mass (tel: [39] 06 6988 3273). If you're part of a group, the name of only one member should be given, plus the number in your group and the language spoken. If tickets are available, they can be picked up at the Bronze Door of the Vatican a couple of days before the audience.
