VIETNAM HAS thousands of kilometres of coastline and should be a beach bum's dream. But pristine stretches of the country's shoreline remain unknown to tourists, due to a lack of facilities. Most people seeking sand in Vietnam head for the bustle of Nha Trang or Mui Ne, an enclave of upmarket resorts near Phan Thiet, a few hours' drive from Ho Chi Minh City.
However, Phu Quoc Island in the southwest, between the Mekong Delta and Cambodia, is starting to make its name as an idyllic beach retreat. The island has much to offer, with easy access, a range of accommodation choices, snorkelling and diving trips around its coast and a lush interior. Forty-five kilometres from north to south and 25km from east to west at its widest point, Phu Quoc Island is inhabited by about 70,000 people in small villages, with Duong Dong in the centre of the west coast the only town of any size. Here you can find the post office, banks and a lively market with a fantastic array of fruits, vegetables and flowers. The north of the island is quite mountainous, while the south is mostly flat, tapering away to the An Thoi Islands.
The west and east coasts have spectacular beaches, including Bai Truong, or Long Beach, which stretches more than 20km along the west. Most of the resorts are along Long Beach to the south of Duong Dong, and their facilities range from luxurious to rough and ready. The beach is ideal for swimming and sunbathing, and is thankfully free of souvenir vendors, although these could appear as tourist numbers increase. All resorts have restaurants that offer a range of international and Vietnamese dishes, but some of the best food is at Hieu Family Restaurant, a simple shelter on the beach just south of the Tropicana Resort.
Motorbikes are cheap and easy to rent on the island, at about US$5-US$7 a day, but check out the machine's condition before you head off, as many are in a tatty state. Most roads on Phu Quoc are unpaved, so be prepared to return after a day's exploration covered in dust. You can also visit a pearl farm at the southern end of Long Beach, where you can learn about their culture and pick up a souvenir.
You'll find colour in the southern fishing village, An Thoi, particularly when ferries arrive from the mainland, and there are some spectacular beaches on the east coast. Bai Sao (Star Beach) is the best. Its dazzling white sands make the water extremely inviting and basic food stalls cater to visitors. However, the bay can become too rough for swimming during the rainy season, between June and October, and, although there aren't any hotels there, it's a favourite spot for islanders and can get crowded at weekends.
