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Modern tastes threaten spirit of tradition

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For thousands of years, Chinese have drunk spirits with meals and during festivals.

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Traditional drinkers are fond of white spirits (or baijiu ) which are high in alcohol content.

'Taking white spirits is a traditional habit. As the saying goes: What is a feast without white spirits?' said Nie Fengying , Shanghai representative of Shanxi Xinghuacun Fenjiu Distillery, China's second-largest distillery.

'Northerners and peasants prefer strong drinks with high alcohol content. There is no 'oomph' in a weak drink and they don't get any satisfaction from it,' Ms Nie said.

The market for white spirits in China is enormous.

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'Traditional drinkers are northerners and people living in rural areas. We are talking about 900 million people,' she said.

However, drinking habits have recently taken on a new dimension as city dwellers and southerners turn to lighter spirits for reasons of health and climate.

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